Review: Yakitori Kintori, the latest ouptost of the Guu restaurant empire
Yakitori Kintori ★ 668 Bloor St. W., 416-551-7588
The latest outpost of James Kim’s ever-expanding Guu restaurant empire has many familiar elements, from the decor (pitch-black walls, light birch tables and stools) to the clientele (groups of stylish 20-somethings guzzling pitcher-size mugs of Sapporo). Same goes for the food, much of which is very good, including thin slices of salmon sashimi topped with green onion, a citrusy soy sauce, wasabi-laced mayo and fried garlic, and a whole Japanese squid grilled to perfection, tender at the centre and burnt just right at the edges.
Where Yakitori Kintori tries to break new ground, the execution is uneven: instead of chicken tenderloin skewers, which are dry, or strips of chicken skin, which are gummy and soft, go for the meltingly tender beef tongue (it has a pleasing iron note) or the juicy Wagyu served perfectly rare.
