Review: Playa Cabana Cantina, the Junction’s raucous new taco bar
2883 Dundas St. W., 647-352-7767
Proof that the Junction is the next hot neighbourhood: it now has the city’s best tacos. Playa Cabana, the crammed Annex cantina, has opened a raucous, tacky new location at Dundas and Keele. The kitchen dispenses food you’ll crave for weeks after, like the grilled octopus in a smoky charred jalapeño salsa, or the al pastor, which brings a soft, fresh tortilla full of juicy adobo-marinated pork and sweet, crunchy pineapple cubes. Traditional Mexican corn—charred cobs rubbed in pequin chili, lime and queso fresco—makes the dead of winter feel like a summer barbecue. Chilies rellenos, a seared poblano pepper oozing with a river of Oaxacan cheese, tastes uncannily like a pizza pocket. That’s not a complaint—it’s awesome junk food. A soft tres leches cake exudes a heavenly hit of vanilla. Online reservations are mandatory.
One thought on “Review: Playa Cabana Cantina, the Junction’s raucous new taco bar”
Food is great. Front of the house is atrocious. I don’t need a bottled blonde telling me to wait at the bar when (i) i have reservations for 4; and (ii) there is a table for 4 open within plain sight. I also don’t need said bottled blonde to tell me to wait “while she does something”, when “something” is looking at her iPad to see what @#!# tables are open.
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