/
1x
Advertisement
Proudly Canadian, obsessively Toronto. Subscribe to Toronto Life!
Food & Drink

Review: Pain Perdu nails the bistro basics

By Toronto Life
Copy link
Introducing: Pain Perdu, a traditional French bistro in Lawrence Park

Pain Perdu ★★ 3185 Yonge St., 416-488-0081

We’ve updated our star ratings system since this article was first published. Read more about the change here, and find the up-to-date rating in our restaurant listings.

At his new north-end restaurant, a ­spin­off of the beloved Pain Perdu bakery, chef Evaristo De Andrade sticks to tradition and nails the bistro basics: moderately priced, simple French food in a warm setting. Buttery squid ink risotto is served with smoky grilled rings of tender calamari. Savoury French onion soup has deep layers of flavour, even if the onions could use a touch more caramelization.

And the vanilla-scented pastry cream in a golden gâteau basque is otherworldly good. Service is slightly slow, but the staff makes up for it with generous pours of wine selected from a largely affordable (many bottles under $40) Old World list.

NEVER MISS A TORONTO LIFE STORY

Sign up for Table Talk, our free newsletter with essential food and drink stories.

By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy.
You may unsubscribe at any time.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Advertisement
Advertisement

The Latest

"Success is random—all you can do is keep improving": Max Kerman of Arkells on his new memoir, Try Hard
Culture

“Success is random—all you can do is keep improving”: Max Kerman of Arkells on his new memoir, Try Hard

Inside the Latest Issue

Inside the Latest Issue

The April issue of Toronto Life features the anatomy of a Bay Street fiasco at RBC. Plus, our obsessive coverage of everything that matters now in the city.