Review: Pain Perdu nails the bistro basics

Pain Perdu ★★
3185 Yonge St., 416-488-0081

At his new north-end restaurant, a ­spin­off of the beloved Pain Perdu bakery, chef Evaristo De Andrade sticks to tradition and nails the bistro basics: moderately priced, simple French food in a warm setting. Buttery squid ink risotto is served with smoky grilled rings of tender calamari. Savoury French onion soup has deep layers of flavour, even if the onions could use a touch more caramelization. And the vanilla-scented pastry cream in a golden gâteau basque is otherworldly good. Service is slightly slow, but the staff makes up for it with generous pours of wine selected from a largely affordable (many bottles under $40) Old World list.