Review: Pain Perdu nails the bistro basics
Pain Perdu ★★ 3185 Yonge St., 416-488-0081
At his new north-end restaurant, a spinoff of the beloved Pain Perdu bakery, chef Evaristo De Andrade sticks to tradition and nails the bistro basics: moderately priced, simple French food in a warm setting. Buttery squid ink risotto is served with smoky grilled rings of tender calamari. Savoury French onion soup has deep layers of flavour, even if the onions could use a touch more caramelization.
And the vanilla-scented pastry cream in a golden gâteau basque is otherworldly good. Service is slightly slow, but the staff makes up for it with generous pours of wine selected from a largely affordable (many bottles under $40) Old World list.
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