Review: The Forth brings King West style to the souvlaki strip

The Forth ★★ 629 Danforth Ave., 416-465-2629

Former Brassaii chef Chris Kalisperas has opened a sexy supper club on the souvlaki strip, in a cavernous warehouse space with a smiling hostess gatekeeping the ground floor. The tight, ambitious Canadian menu has that King West feel, too: there’s cured steelhead trout cubes, citrus and roe strung like jewels on the plate; crispy dry-aged duck zinged with Quebec haksap berries and sweet heirloom carrots; and roasted octopus on a grits-like bed of smooth popcorn purée. Even meat and potatoes get a smart spin: a 60 day–aged Ontario strip loin is nearly overshadowed by a quirky croquette of soft shin meat wrapped in potato shreds.