Review: fresh-cut udon at Bushi Udon Kappo at Yonge and St. Clair

The thick wheat noodles, cut fresh daily, never lose their dense chew, whether served screaming hot in a buttery beef curry, dipped cold in an umami-powered pork and onion broth, or even piled on rotund scoops of green tea ice cream and drowned in a maple syrup reduction (sounds crazy, but it works). Other dishes, like a crisp-skinned black cod, salty butter-poached oysters and a sloppy spicy tuna roll, are good but unremarkable. The spare room is ably handled by friendly servers who are quick to fill your green tea.