Recipe: Huevos migas from Lady Marmalade, a refined kitchen sink breakfast
By David Cherry and Natalia Simachkevitch
PREP TIME: 1 hour | COOK TIME: 1 hour 10 minutes
SOAK TIME (FOR BEANS): overnight
SMASHED BLACK BEANS
1½-lb bag dry black turtle beans, soaked overnight
¼ yellow onion, diced
1 Roma tomato, diced
2 tbsp canola oil
1 tbsp each garlic powder, ground cumin, dried oregano and salt
1¼ tsp puréed chipotle
1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
¼ cup sour cream
2 tbsp fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1 tbsp 10 per cent cream
Salt and pepper
1 cup cooked brown rice
12 large free-run eggs
2 tbsp canola oil
2 cooked spicy chorizo sausages, chopped
1 tsp chili flakes
1 cup shredded, aged white cheddar
4 scallions, julienned
4 handfuls of tortilla chips
8 sprigs of cilantro for garnish
PICO DE GALLO SALSA
4 Roma tomatoes, finely diced
½ small red onion, finely diced
1½ tbsp canola oil
1½ tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
½ tsp each salt and pepper
1. For the smashed beans, place soaked beans, onion, tomatoes, garlic powder, cumin and oregano in a pot with 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour and 10 minutes until beans are soft and smooth in texture. Smash roughly with potato masher. Stir in canola oil, chipotle, cilantro, salt and pepper. Beans will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for 2 to 3 days.
2. Prepare brown rice following package directions.
3. Whisk crèma ingredients. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. Stir salsa ingredients. Let stand for 30 minutes.
5. Whisk eggs and salt in a large bowl. Coat a large sauté pan with half the oil and set over medium-high heat. Add chorizo. Cook for 1 minute. Add 1 cup pico, half the scallions and 1 tsp chili flakes. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring often. Scrape into a bowl. Pour remaining oil and eggs in pan and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until soft-scrambled. Fold in cheese with chorizo-salsa mixture. Remove from heat.
6. Serve scramble with rice and beans. Top with salsa, scallions and cilantro. Drizzle with cilantro crèma. Add tortilla chips. Serve immediately.
For a pretty garnish, julienne some scallions and place them in ice-cold water until they curl up.
DAVID CHERRY AND NATALIA SIMACHKEVITCH
At Lady Marmalade, a cheery café in Leslieville, husband-and-wife team David Cherry and Natalia Simachkevitch serve haute hangover cures: fresh, organic, fried, bacon-topped and cheese-smothered brunches. Their menu is influenced by Cherry’s travels through rural villages in the Yucatan peninsula, where he spent time visiting his sister when she owned a restaurant in Playa del Carmen. (She now runs Lady Marmalade’s Victoria, B.C., counterpart.) In Mexico, huevos migas means fridge purge—it’s a mash-up of stale tortillas, last night’s tacos and almost-expired condiments. Cherry and Simachkevitch have refined the kitchen sink breakfast with cilantro-infused crèma, pico de gallo and brown basmati rice, but they maintain the dish’s rustic, waist-expanding soul.