Perigee, the final review

Brick walls and exposed wooden beams bring some of the Distillery District’s Victorian-industrial chic tableside, but the past is merely a prologue for Perigee’s Dickensian space and inspired food. The kitchen, a glass case of commotion at the centre of the dining room, is filled with a brigade of chefs preparing seasonal nine-course tasting menus. Restrained molecular techniques (sous-vide and spherification) produce artful riffs on traditional French dishes. Chef Christopher Brown’s à la carte dishes merit equal praise: a tender braised pork belly app approaches perfection when paired with crunchy tendrils of garlicky fennel sauerkraut. Firm-fleshed and crispy-skinned pickerel is swoon worthy; cooking it sous-vide elevates the fish to new heights. A duck trio with sumptuous foie and a succulent breast are dazzling in their little pool of flavourful mole sauce. Dessert—a chocolate terrine adorned with chocolate “caviar” and Nutella ice cream—satisfies, but not to the same degree as previous courses. Service is polished. The wine list, while thoughtful, is overly brief for a restaurant of this calibre. ★★★