Rising temperatures are remaking Ontario wine, producing grand reds never seen in our cool climate
Big reds are booming. The province’s cool climate and short growing season are known for producing lightweight pinot noir and gamay, not bold shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. The hot 2010 vintage, however, overturned conventional wisdom. Bordeaux grape varieties, including cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, flourished with ripe flavours and richer textures. Niagara even produced a few excellent shirazes. But global warming can’t take all the credit. After several years of experimentation, winemakers are increasingly savvy and turning out more refined versions every year. Here, five big, bold homegrown reds.
<p><strong>$32 | Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p> Cabernet franc has long been Ontario’s leading big red, but maturing vines in the warmest sites are raising it to new levels. This is a refined cab franc with classic flavours of berry, currant, herbs, tobacco and earth. Best 2014 to 2017. Vintages 130997.
<p><strong>$34 | St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p><br />
Merlot is susceptible to cold weather. However, it’s now tied with cab franc as Niagara’s most planted red grape. Ravine’s fine version is much like a Saint-Émilion, with ripe berry fruit integrated with chocolate, cedar and mineral notes. Best 2014 to 2018. <a href="http://www.ravinevineyard.com/" target="_blank">Ravinevineyard.com.</a>
<p><strong>$55.20 | Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula | <br />
91 points</strong></p><br />
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This blend, launched in 1999, was the first wine <br />
to prove Niagara could make big reds. It’s now hit great precision and near-perfect ripeness, with currant, raspberry, tobacco and oak spice. Best 2015 to beyond 2020. <a href="http://www.triuswines.com/" target="_blank">Triuswines.com.</a>
<p><strong>$23 | Niagara-on-the-Lake | 89 points</strong></p><br />
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Late-ripening cabernet sauvignon is not supposed to work in Niagara, but 2010 produced several great ones. This organically grown version is mid-weight and mellow. It has a youthful, floral bloom with raspberry fruit, background oak spice, a touch of earth and tobacco. Best 2014 to 2016. Vintages 193573.
<p><strong>$20 | Niagara Peninsula | 90 points</strong></p><br />
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With its hot climate, B.C. dominates Canadian syrah/shiraz. However, maturing Ontario vines and the hot 2010 season created a dense structure and powerful flavours of plum, violet, wood smoke and classic black pepper. Best 2014 to 2018. LCBO 317941.
Jackson-Triggs 2010 Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Shiraz
Jackson-Triggs 2010 Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Shiraz
I’m particularly fond of the Cali quality and depth of flavour of the Cab Sauv from Pondview in Niagara and the Cab Franc from Stanners in PEC. Both these wines taste like they should cost a lot more. A few years back I never would have believed these kinds of reds were possible in Ontario.
Is it me or does David write about the same producers all the time? I want to discover more from the LCBO and Ontario. help?