Review: Otto’s does near-perfect döner in Kensington Market

Otto’s Berlin Döner ★★ 256 Augusta Ave., 647-347-7713

This new snack counter in Kensington Market serves a near-perfect version of Berlin’s unofficial late-night nosh, the döner. Thick, juicy slices of spit-roasted veal and lamb are tossed with fresh tomato, crunchy iceberg lettuce and red cabbage, then doused with a spicy, garlicky yogurt sauce. The addictive and messy mixture is served on grilled flatbread. For vegetarians, the halloumi döner comes stuffed with salty slabs of fried cheese and a generous dusting of feta. And Otto’s serves more than just sandwiches: their currywurst is an expertly seasoned pork sausage—laced with a dry, slow-burning cumin heat—served with a reckless dollop of curried ketchup (or creamy aïoli) and a mountain of fries. If the sauce doesn’t fan the flames, one of the nine German brews, including a Schwarzbier (black lager), should do the trick.