Must Try: Splendido turns the lowly oyster into an event

By Jeffrey Bercuson | Photograph by Emma McIntyre

The smoked Rocky Point oyster arrives domed, looking like a mysterious ringed planet. When the server removes the lid, a dense plume of cherry­wood smoke funnels upward, encircling you in the scent of an autumn bonfire. In the bowl, there’s a plump, soft and salty P.E.I. oyster surrounded by buttery potato foam, and topped simply with chives and three crisp golden Yukon chips for crunch. It’s just a snack before the meal, but it perfectly captures the philosophy and character of the current regime at Splendido: innovative yet unpretentious, elegant yet playful. 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788.