Must-Try: Auberge du Pommier’s emerald-green frog leg tempura

Among Gallic delicacies, frog legs haven’t had the same staying power as steak frites and duck confit. Marc St. Jacques, the inventive chef at Auberge du Pommier, brings the traditional French dish up to date. He skewers the amphibians’ thigh and calf meat on their own bones to create plump mini-drumsticks. Then, he coats the morsels in dill-infused tempura batter and fries them until the outsides crackle but the meat stays moist. Served with creamy aïoli spiked with capers and crunchy slivered almonds, the dainty drumettes are bright, herbaceous and quintessentially French—and as addictive as the very best chicken wings.