Locavore, shmocavore—a roundup of the new foodie backlash
You don’t have to look too far to find signs that there’s a foodie backlash brewing. And while we at The Dish may be guilty of some of the things these authors condemn, even we can’t help but chuckle at some of these rants. We round up the new case against foodies after the jump:
• Although it wasn’t the first to weigh in, B.R. Myers’s article in The Atlantic this month, “The Moral Crusade Against Foodies,” has gotten a lot of people talking. Myers’s main point? “Gluttony dressed up as foodie-ism is still gluttony.” He admonishes foodies for feigning concern over an animal’s well-being when their own eating habits are, often enough, far from sustainable on a widespread scale or, in the very least, inaccessible in price to the general population. He also takes shots at the self-indulgence, single-mindedness and false piety of food writers, including Anthony Bourdain, Michael Pollan and Kim Severson.
• On The Atlantic’s website, “B.R. Myers and the Myth of ‘Sustainable’ Food,’” by historian James McWilliams, is a measured response to Myers’s over-the-top piece. Like Myers, McWilliams criticizes foodie snobbery and the narrowness of the foodie belief that theirs is the best way to eat.
This exclusive insularity—combined with the shamelessly uncritical glorification of foodie issues in the foodie media—leads its tastemakers to overlook a humbling reality: for most people food is just food. Just food. It’s not religion or politics or environmentalism or fashion or travel or art or sex or anything particularly substantial beyond itself. Most omnivores don’t have a dilemma.
• From Gourmet Live, Pavia Rosati’s article “Shut Up, Locavores” reminisces about the good old days of microwave TV dinners and Oreos for breakfast. While she’s sympathetic toward those seeking to minimize their food miles, Senyei is pretty direct:
Hey, locavores. Shut up already!
Your intentions may be noble, but your preachy self-righteousness is insufferable.
• In “He’s had his fill,” the Boston Globe’s Alex Beam eagerly seeks out signs that the foodie trend is on the decline. Beam calls Mark Bittman’s “A Food Manifesto for the Future” “ridiculously pretentious,” and laments Michelle Obama’s foodieism in the White House. However, Beam’s evidence that foodie influence is fading fast is less than convincing—he notes that The Food Network lost viewers in the last quarter of 2010, but admits that these viewers probably went to other food shows on the Travel and Cooking channels (owned by The Food Network’s parent company, no less). The best moment is Beam’s response to a lobster massacre scene in Gabrielle Hamilton’s memoir: “David Foster Wallace would not have approved.”
• If a picture is worth a thousand words, a YouTube clip must be worth a few more. IFC’s new show Portlandia, written and starring SNL’s Fred Armisen and Sleater-Kinney’s Carrie Brownstein, features a hilarious scene with an obnoxious couple demanding to know absolutely everything about the chicken they are about to eat. This being Portland, the waitress takes it all in stride:
“So here is the chicken you will be enjoying tonight. His name was Colin. Here are his papers.”
• The Moral Crusade Against Foodies [The Atlantic]
• B.R. Myers and the Myth of ‘Sustainable’ Food [The Atlantic]
• Shut Up, Locavores [Gourmet Live]
• He’s had his fill [Boston Globe]
It takes time to ask someone where the chicken came from. It takes some thought to have something other than Oreo for breakfast, and it takes some damn effort to uncover a producer that is local, ethical, and to arrange a minimal budget (mine) to afford it and make lifestyle changes that minimizes my animal protein consumption. So, excuse me for making everyone who feels offended by my “snobbery” feel bad.
While we’re at it, I apologize for working hard to attain an education too. I am sure my views on the needs for mandatory history and geography in high schools is seen as intellectual snobbery. I am sure my thoughts on Reality TV being a waste of time, and that there’s not nearly enough good programming on (ridiculously expensive) cable is seen as “lifestyle elitist”. I am sure me circulating petitions and campaigning on environmental issues is insufferable and preachy and self-righteous.
I’ve certainly seen the error of my ways and will join the writers whose sentiments hint that ‘getting real’ consists of eating McD’s, sit on the couch with some Coors Lite, and alternate between Jersey Shore and Teen Mom marathons. God forbid you’re deemed an activist, or intellectual, want something better than you’ve got. What’s better than a good ol’ microwaveable dinner???
Take it from someone who has been a “Foodie” (raised on a farm and moved to the city) but most importantly, one who is within the “Foodie” industry…there is NO foodie backlash – the industry grows every year. I should know.
My firm which has been in business for over ten years, is supplying a demand = booking famous chefs (authors, TV personalities, writers, champions of food culture, etc) around the world. In particular is the demand for chefs to host events and we’re not just talking food & wine shows. Our pharmaceutical clients for example, understand the draw these famous “foodies” have with the general public. Their trusted voice in regards to food, their particular experiences with feeding their own families, etc., our clients are aware of the “foodie fan” market and it’s a busy industry.
There is a constant hunger for food trends, food education, how it effects our earth and our families. The tourism industry alone is 30% of our overall business. From culinary tours in South Africa and Napa Valley… to enticing American business travelers to places like Alberta and Ontario – through the voice of a well known chef in Canada.
Many of the events close to our hearts, are the small town venues such as the Sarnia Wine Show and the Alpine Food & Wine show – these smaller events have a more intimate relationship with their local farmers and wine makers – and our chefs are truly appreciative to help bring awareness and popularity to these smaller communities, with their overall Canadian draw.
The one trend I do see which needs changing – the demand for foodie experiences does not equal to what the market place is offering. Sure, there are travel companies packaging up tours with celebrity chefs or famous nutritionists for cruises or culinary travel, but what the consumer wants is a tour, through the eyes of a chef / the intimate relationship they have with food and why it seems more fun when they cook vs when you cook at home.
If our corporate foodie experiences are any sign, there’s no decline in their particular search for food knowledge but more importantly, the fun interaction with our chefs.
The demand is only growing, and in the last 5 years, it has been booming. It’s not the “Cake Boss” guys who are getting booked either – it’s those food personalities with serious credibility, which are getting the big contracts and therefore, reaching this big audience you mention, that is in the decline. I think not.
Hats off, bow and pay homage to the pseudo gourmands for bringing this crisis to the forefront and making the Japanese earthquake/tusami/radiation,Libya, et al insignificant in comparison and allowing us Kraft Dinner consumers to not feel too guilty for over using the term Californication…hold the offal.
Thank you, thank you, thank you…….
Well, like most things. “Food/Chef” lifestyle for the sake of good TV was made a superstar. Now, after total saturation, we re seeing a negative turn. Too many movements, and voila…indignation. Oh well. Mores the pity.
I always did have trouble with the “celebrity chef” thing.
Add in Locavore and again…here we are. Saddening.
Thank you Carmen and Sil for proving their point.
Why is it that people who take the extra effort and initiative to educate themselves on where their food comes from and the communities they will be supporting with their purchases are deemed snobs and intellectuals?? There is something fundamentally flawed in this way of thinking about the lifestyle choices that we all are entitled to make. If being called a snob is the price I have to pay to ensure the money I spend goes to supporting local farmers and families instead of the pockets of mega fast food corporations who by the way do not give a damn about any of us and undermine their employees, then so be it! Through the choices we make as consumers comes great power and responsibility.
@ sickofcupcakes:
I am not sure what exactly you mean. I do not go about telling people I am righteous for my choices, though I do engage people in discussion because I honestly don’t think many people are aware of large-scale agricultural practices. I posted my comments in response to an article that openly mocked people who are attempting, however clumsily, to educate themselves and make good choices.
I will gladly discuss my politics, religion and opinions, but not to belittle anyone or to try to convert them. It seems to me in this country we’ve lost the ability to do that: our habit is either to shut up politely or clobber someone over the head.
As for Myers’ attack on Pollan and his 36-hour prep dinner, may I point to the little critiqued and much loved Superbowl extravaganza devoted to beer, salty/fatty snacks, and being completely stationary while glorying in the athleticism of men, some of whom get away with anything, from rape to murder.
My, you foodies sure like to hear yourselves talk..educate yourselves all you want. Just shut up about it already.
If you care about where your food comes from, and you have discovered that our industrial food system is both unhealthy and unsustainable, does that make you a ‘foodie’? The name-calling is not helpful. The people who describe and celebrate healthier ways of producing and enjoying food, such as Michael Pollan, are doing us all a big favour. If you take the time to read Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma, for example, you might be surprised to hear him described as ‘self indulgent’ or ‘falsely pious’. Clever, relentless, wise, entertaining, passionate yes. When in doubt about critical diatribes, it is always a good idea to go to the source. The more you learn about local sustainable food systems and the near-future problems of regional food security that our children will have to deal with, the less patience you will have with this so-called foodie backlash. I agree, locavore, schmocavore. Call it what you want – but don’t go back to sleep.
@ sickofcupcakes re: “you foodies like to hear yourselves talk”. I just want to clarify that we are responding to an article from “the dish” found in a magainze that is notorious for food/restaurant/et al reviews. Responding, in kind, to an article about food is more than appropriate.
My question is this: why does there have to be back lash at all? Similar to Julicid’s post I don’t understand why anyone who isn’t on board with the locavore concept would even care. Chosing to make certain choices regarding what I eat doesn’t affect anyone else. Chosing to spend my discretionary income on food instead of cable tv is not hurting anyone.
The problem started when the media caught on that people wanted better, locally sourced food. Then the farmers caught on that people will pay anything to get local. The the restaurants caught on that people will pay anything to eat local. One way or another, someone was going to blow the whistle and tell everyone that the Emperor has no clothes.
Because we, I mean North Americans, never really had a food culture on this continent, our society is gullible and has been easily lured by trends created elsewhere.
I am fortunate to have been born in the Orient and exposed to all kinds of food. As such, I have never bought into this foodie trend as I grew up eating local or growing my own food. I am also a competent cook who can whip up a Duck confit, risotto or osso buco, but I never considered myself a foodie – a pretentious name for the gullible.
There’s a big difference between knowing where our food comes from, and eating as entertainment. Michael Pollan, as an example, has shed light on food production practices that are unhealthy, environmentally hazardous, and totally inhumane. The bevy of chefs who have become celebrities, on the other hand, have just provided some people, who were always selfish self-indulgent pains in the neck, one more forum to take make ‘me’ the most important word in the English language.