Hidden pleasure: a delectable Cantonese dining experience that’s off the foodie radar
Hidden pleasure: a delectable Cantonese dining experience that’s off the foodie radar
It’s easy to see why John’s Chinese Barbecue Restaurant has remained off the foodie radar: it’s hidden in a Richmond Hill strip mall and has a non-descript English name. Most come for the Chinese rotisserie—a joy in itself—but adventurous diners tend to order John’s Cantonese fare. Several notches above the usual cloying sauces and greasy batter of take-out Chinese, we dig into expertly rendered versions of chow mein and stir fry, as well as Guangdong delicacies like braised sea cucumbers, Peking duck and dried abalone (dining with a Chinese-reading companion helps decipher the specials and menu). In this slideshow, we tour an authentic Cantonese meal that’s worth a drive north of the 407.
John’s Chinese Barbecue Restaurant, Unit 10, Chalmers Gate 11, 328 Hwy. 7 E., Richmond Hill, 905-881-3333.
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- The meal starts with a complementary turren of the daily soup, a traditional broth made from simmering various ingredients over a fire for hours. Pictured here is the pork rib and fuzzy gourd soup, but after several visits to John’s, we’ve sampled a spare rib version, with watercress and apricot kernels; an interpretation with winter melon and pork; and even a milky rendition, with fresh fish, tofu and bok choy.
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- Unlike many downtown charcuterie-centric restaurants, eating offal is incredibly affordable at John’s, where it is served served lou mei style (dim sum-like appetizers). We grudgingly pass over the pigs ears and duck tongues to sample this dish of goose livers simmered in a seasoned soy-based liquid. The Chinese foie gras is warm, tender, firmly textured and with an incredible umami punch.
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- No visit to John’s would be complete without ordering the resto’s signature “king of all char siu.” This is not a standard barbecued pork shoulder (John’s uses a rare cut that requires an extra 15 minutes of preparation time, resulting in a sweet, tender creation that’s worth the higher price tag). We find ourselves fighting over the crunchy caramelized ends, although the candy-like braised soy bean nuggets at its base are equally addictive.
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- Fresh live seafood is a specialty in Cantonese cuisine. Steamed and dressed lightly with hot oil, soy sauce, ginger and scallions, the white fish bursts with natural sweetness. Done well, the flesh should be opaque, start to flake and barely adhere to the spine. John’s accomplishes all three flawlessly.
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- Stir-fried egg white cloud: crispy chow mein noodles are accompanied by stir-fried scallops and egg whites in a dish that is as fluffy as the name suggests. Raw egg yolk sits atop the mountain of protein, creating an unctuous sauce when broken.
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- Cantonese roast duck is served Peking style with steamed Mandarin pancakes, shredded scallions, julienned cucumbers and carrots. The crackling amber skin is a joy, especially when served with moist breast, crunchy vegetables, hoisin sauce and soft wheat pancakes in a DIY Chinese taco.
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- This lobster stir fry is an excellent illustration of how John’s avoids oily batters and congealed sauces. It comes with ginger, green onion and the lobster head (just for fun).
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- Spongy bamboo fungus are braised with shiitake and straw mushrooms, then ladled over firm broccoli florets and bok choy.
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- Tender sliced beef is seasoned, stir-fried with minced garlic and served over a bed of al dente Chinese broccoli. It’s an authentic rendering of a take-out standby.
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