Gerrard Street East Guide: our nine favourite places along Little India’s main drag
The shop lights on Gerrard Street East stay on till nine—a late-night tradition that started out with the old Bollywood movie house that originally brought Indian merchants to the strip. Now sari shops, glowing neon signs for Kashmiri tea and sidewalk stands selling spiced corn on the cob keep the area filled with Pakistani Canadians from nearby Victoria Park, South Asian families in from the burbs, and residents from the slowly-but-surely gentrifying side streets. The retail bustle is creeping west of Jones, where several new businesses are revitalizing a dreary stretch of empty storefronts, noodle houses, laundromats and hair salons.
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Pizza Pide
Behind the long counter of this Turkish pizza joint, cooks in flour-covered aprons toss circles of dough skyward. The dough is then brushed with egg, sprinkled with sesame seeds and folded over the toppings, to become a stuffed pie. This variation on pizza is breaking through ethnic borders: two years ago, 80 per cent of Pide’s customers were Turks; now it’s a fifty-fifty split with non-Turkish customers. The karis¸ik (a Turkish version of quattro stagioni) is the best-seller. Worshippers from the Canadian Turkish Islamic Centre, which is three doors down, prefer the traditional lahmacun, a thin-crust dough topped with minced lamb, tomato and spices.
949 Gerrard St. E., 416-462-9666.
Grinder
Last May, Gerrard East was stamped with the requisite signifier of gentrification: an indie coffee shop. This cheerful, white-brick corner café faces the Marjory and Gerrard streetcar stop. (There’s even a digital sign inside that announces the next streetcar arrival; commuters can pour their own cup and pay later if they need to make a run for it.) As the day goes on, the clientele transitions from caffeinating commuters to moms with strollers and dads who accessorize with BabyBjörns.
1021 Gerrard St. E., 416-200-4606.
Great Burger Kitchen
One of the newer arrivals on this block, Great Burger Kitchen serves up plump beef patties on Brick Street Bakery buns. The owners are Ted Koutsogiannopoulos, of Wine Bar, and Jim Grontis, of Johnny G’s on Parliament. Opening on a desolate strip was a gamble, but it appears to have paid off: at lunch, Riverdale Collegiate kids pile in, and at dinner, customers line up for burgers, thick onion rings and generous bowls of gourmet poutine.
1056 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-0111.
Centre of Gravity Vaudeville Theatre
At the west end of the bazaar, a Tim Burton-esque brick building houses the Zero Gravity Circus troupe and their monthly Lunacy Cabaret—a sort of low-rent, punk rock Cirque du Soleil. The crowd ranges from purple-haired pseudo-goths to men in suits ready to cheer, catcall and slither up onstage to participate in the artsy, politically charged and provocative sketches (Rob Ford roasts, sailor stripteases). Five-dollar beers help fuel the revelry. During the daylight hours, the Sideshow Café, at the corner of the building, serves fair-trade americanos to parents waiting to pick up their kids from Zero Gravity’s circus school for children.
1300 Gerrard St. E., 416-938-6030.
786 Halal Pakistani Restaurant
While Indian buffets still dot the heavily Sikh and Hindu eastern edge of the bazaar, halal restaurants are taking over the west. (Most buildings are still Indian-owned, but it’s increasingly Pakistani shopkeepers who own and manage the small businesses.) The dining room here is filled with large extended families who linger over their meals while the children run circles around the tables. The famous whole tilapia, rubbed with red Lahori spices and deep-fried, is juicy and crisp. The weekend buffet of authentic curries—generous chunks of meat on the bone, with whole hot peppers or slices of ginger—and such staples as butter chicken are justifiably popular (lunch $10, dinner $13).
1330 Gerrard St. E., 416-406‑0786.
Lahore Tikka House
Fourteen years ago, owner Alnoor Sayani took over a former KFC and began building a peach palace of a restaurant. A few trailers appeared in the parking lot as temporary dining space, and then never left. To feed the growing crowds, Sayani also installed a massive white summer party tent, draped inside with bright saris and strung with Christmas lights. The outdoor festival–like atmosphere, combined with the food (cinnamon-and cardamom-infused Karahi curries, Afghani chicken tikka, and homemade kulfi with a signature almond finish), so reminded Pakistani-Canadians of dining back home that business spiked. Sayani says that construction will be done in six months—he plans to turn the place into a massive nightclub—but he’s been saying that for years now. The perpetual mid-construction state is part of its charm.
1365 Gerrard St. E., 416-406-1668.
Bombay Chowpatty
This takeout joint–meets–Bollywood movie store has the usual assortment of snack-shop chaats and puris, but the variety of Indian street food and desserts is the real reason people flock here. The vada pav ($5), a sandwich of spicy, deep-fried potato balls, is smothered with two kinds of chutney. The royal falooda ($4)—a rose-flavoured drink of cold milk, ice cream and vermicelli noodles topped with pistachios—is a traditional Bombay favourite. And then there is the paan, a digestive aid that’s somewhat controversial (the main ingredients, betel leaves and areca nuts, are known carcinogens). But for millions of South Asians, it’s a mildly addictive after-meal staple.
1386A Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8080.
Kohinoor Foods
Aromas of cardamom, cumin and coriander draw shoppers past the battered red sign into this 32-year-old corner grocery. The sidewalk stands are covered in boxes of tindora (similar to okra), amla (Indian gooseberry, known for its medicinal qualities), karela (a gourd reputed to help fight diabetes) and tinda (a small squash-like fruit). Inside, the narrow aisles burst with bulk spices, basmati rice, every size of tiffin box, and stacks of locally baked naan and parathas. Boil‑a-bag versions of such Indian classics as aloo gobi and mattar paneer are popular with time-strapped home chefs.
1438 Gerrard St. E., 416-461‑4432.
Udupi Palace
Herbivores can order freely at this strictly vegetarian basement banquet hall. Diners shovel in the restaurant’s signature South Indian crispy dosas, along with spongy uthapams and other traditional cuisine from the southwestern Indian city for which it’s named. When owner Hubert D’mello isn’t overseeing orders for the thalis and the ever-popular spring dosa (thin rice flour and lentil crêpes filled with potato curry, veggies and spicy chutney), he’s looking after his second venture, Nitya, a candlelit resto across the street that’s slightly more upscale.
1460 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8189.
#1, Most of the business you cire are not part of Little India. Gerrard East, yes, but not Little India. The Indian Bazaar has more than enough to fill an article without reaching beyond.
#2, How could you miss mentioning Moti Mahal? Not that I want it to be any more popular than it is, but it serves the best butter chicken in the city, hands down. Rang Home Store is also not to be missed.
Sadly, since 9/11 and SARS, this community is suffering a significant loss of tourism that is hurting all the local businesses.
As one who spent 17 years in south Asia and as a lifetime aficionado of curry and vegetarian fare, I commend you for choosing Halal 786 and Udupi Palace, my two favourites in that neighbourhood. I wish them both every success and hope that their menus and recipes never change!
I can’t believe you would promote this hole of a neighborhood. By far Toronto’s WORST area to live in. Gerrard East looks East Hamilton’s crack haven. Good luck to the businesses in this neighborhood – they will need it.
Most of the places you mention are not even in the Bazaar, but rather are west of Greenwood or even west of Jones. These are not in “Little India” at all, but more like Chinatown East. There are some great places in Little India proper that should have been profiled for this article.
To Disturbed…you must be looking at this neighbourhood as an outsider bc you are not seeing it for what it really is, a neighbourhood with great restaurants, interesting culture, and some fabulous homes off Gerrard. And with such close proximity to Leslieville and the Beaches, it is a great place to hang out! The Little India Festival in the summer is one of my fave street festivals. Come out and try the ‘hood sometime, bet you’ll be surprised.
I will always make the trip to Lahore Tika House.
Most of the places featured are not in Little India as other readers correctly stated.
Lahore Tikka House is awesome. I try to go there when I am in Toronto.
Thanks for this article about one of my favourite “Little” ‘hoods in Toronto! Can’t wait to try Udupi Palace…Lahore Tikka House is fantastic!
Disturbed – clearly, you don’t frequent this part of town on a regular basis. Your comments seem very out of touch. Little India is fast becoming a wonderful destination for all things Indian AND great real estate (still affordable – but not for long!)
Udupi Palace is the best, the service and food reminds me of a restaurant in India. It’s definitely worth the trip to Gerrard East. Now I’m craving a dosa!
Thanks for the article! Makes me miss living a 10 min walk away from Little India – mmm, miss Lahore & Udupi (did they ever have their spicy dosa eating contest?)
I love Pizza Pide. The food is always fresh, and the pizza never upsets my stomach, unlike certain “chain” pizza places (which I won’t name here). Flavourful, fresh food, and the staff are genuinely nice people. A+
Dear Disturbed,
I guess you are also wishing the new Starbucks good luck on the corner of Jones E/Gerrard E?
_ _ _
“I can’t believe you would promote this hole of a neighborhood. By far Toronto’s WORST area to live in. Gerrard East looks East Hamilton’s crack haven. Good luck to the businesses in this neighborhood – they will need it.”
January 13, 2011 at 12:18 pm | by Disturbed
Hey Disturbed. Stay out of our neighborhood. The west end is calling.
How did you miss Famous Indian Cuisine? Hands down the BEST Indian food. My faves are the butter chicken, eggplant, shrimp, and goat. Those are just my faves, but I love everything!
Dear writer there are some restaurants not from Little India, unless its extended now, I like Udupi Palace been there since they opened lot of new items and service the best on the street also been to their new location Nitya, great selection of Vegetarian N Non veg…..the next place my fav would be the burger joint wish them all the best :)
I have to agree with Alecta… I think the author has never been to the area before and his boss must’ve made her run down there for the article… missing Motimahal is a *huge* mistake… most of the restaurants are not Little India.. Another catch as a non-regular… Bombay Chowpatty while innovative… def not worth a mention
Lahore Tikka House? Really? Not only is the restaurant grossly overrated, it’s always packed and the service is horrendous. One of the least authentic Indian experiences you could ask for. Every wonder why they’re never finished renovating?
I’m a sucker for Indian food, especially for this one place in Toronto that inarguably serves THE BEST butter chicken there is (sorry Alecta!)…and I mean the butter chicken from off the menu. It’s the Poonam on the Danforth (I know, not Little India, but their BC is totally worth a mention), right across the Canadian Tire (cough*free parking*cough)…their naan is always great too so that with their butter chicken, you just can’t go wrong, trust me…oh and their shrimp tikka masala (so the shrimp instead of the usual chicken) is just as bada%s…
Thanks for mentioning The Sideshow Cafe! Best coffee in the East End! Also, thanks for the Lunacy Caberat Props but who are you calling “low rent” ? (Just kidding- if that description will keep people like Disturbed out then we’ll take it) I also want to mention the Circus Crew loves the Tali at Mahar” it’s the best on the strip.
@Disturbed: Ya, best you stay out of our ‘hood!
@ Steve: Best response ever!
Dear Disturbed
Have to agree with Steve, please stay out of our fabulous and vibrant neighbourhood!! You obviously have no vision and probably live in some prefab condo building!! People in the know already ‘know’ how fabulous this area is, and whilst I loathe Starbucks coffee, they dont just open their stores in any old hood…and certainly not ‘crack havens’!! More importantly though, how could the author not have mentioned BBQ Hut??? This is honestly the best of all the Indian Restaurants….their Chicken Tikka is to die for!!
I live in this neighbourhood. Not only is it safe but the neighbours are great and the proximity to culinary diversity is amazing- Danforth, Mosaic neighbourhood, Chinatown, little India. I particularly welcomed the info on the Centre of Gravity Vaudeville Theatre- we’re definitely going to check this out. As for Pizza Pide- it’s the only place to buy.
My wife and I love to walk the neighbourhoods of Toronto but found a problem with “Little India” Do not venture to this are if you need access to a washroom. There is no coffee shop or municipal bldg. where you would feel welcome. Maybe it is just our age.
I can’t believe the number of readers who are upset that the “Gerrard Street East Guide” included more than just Little India. At least we didn’t have to hear any complaints that ‘it is actually India Bazaar’ like in another blog devoted to the area! perhaps the editor should have used something like ‘More than just Little India!’ for the subtitle to convey the exciting changes taking place west of Greenwood. But I agree, if they can feature 21 places on the Danforth, they could have included Motimahal and at least a half dozen East and SE Asian places worth mentioning near Broadview.
Hey Steve,
Leave the west end out of this. Lots of west-enders appreciate the fine offerings on Gerrard. Disturbed was not speaking on our behalf…
I live in this hood and to better “get” what Disturbed is saying, you just need to walk to Coffee Time corner.Stay there for 2min. and you will be offered crack from scary looking women and man in their 40’s. So, ignore them, stroll down Gerrard and you will find amazing food in any food joint you step in.I shop at BJ supermarket and get a lot of organic, good priced yummies.
Lahore Tikka single-handed is the heart of the strip, thanks to God. Best kebab this side of Pakistan!
As for Disturbed, there will always be nay sayers. Just ignore them, jealousy will get them nothing.
I have not figured it out. But when I do I’ll post it.Until then we’ll just have to enjoy our shiitgngs on the streets.I’ve seen several new ones since this post.Cheers.k
Kohinoor foods…one of my favourite places to shop…especially for warm fresh naan and dahl pouri
My favourite restaurant in Little India is Upudi Palace — their vegetarian thali is great and especially their spicy rasam soup. Lahore Tikka House is also enjoyable. I would also highly recommend that small place on the north corner of Greenwood and Gerrard who’s name I unfortunately can’t remember that is open late (after 5pm) and is frequented by many cab drivers of S. Asian descent (so it must be authentic!) — they have incredibly good and cheap food there.
Dwarika is our favourite buffet in Little India. We drive once a month from the west end for the $9.99 lunch buffet.
You get 6 meat and about 12 veg choices and all you can eat naan( plain,butter or garlic-I love the garlic naan).
I grew up at 971 gerrard beside pape park during the 60s until early 70s.It was always a rough area but it had great community spirit.
Bills restaurant on the corner of pape was great for food.
I read the leaf was looking for new tenants to upgrade its image seems like leslieville is becoming as posh as cabbage town.By the way any one knows me drop me a line George Davidson [email protected]
Dear Disturbed!
I have lived in this area for 13 years and have seen it thrive and develop. Its residents are wonderful people who love the diversity and buzz that comes with inner city living – try it one day! Until then, try harder not to be so insulting…
To Errrrr,
It’s obvious that you have no knowledge of Indian/Pakistani snack street food which is what Bombay Chowpatty serves. And your comment “as a non-regular” says it all!
Alnoor Sayani, Toronto business man dies. He was both charming and caring of others. Deep sympathies to his three sons, Ayaz, Adam, Ayaan as well as his spouse. A truly great loss.
“Tea N Bannock” is such a peaceful place and all Canadian food. First nation to be exact! I just love their Mohawk Tea, so robust and flavorful. I get it every time I there. You have to try the bannock which is fried bread with wild berry jam. Amazing! I’ve been by about 3 times in the last 2 weeks. Yet to try the main courses but was with a friend and stated the salmon burger was favourful with fried bannock bun. see you there!
Ive been living in Little India Town now renamed Leslieville since 1991. My husband lived in India for two years so he loves to be near the sights sounds and scents of India. Yes getting very hipster because it is a great neighbourhood. You didn’t mention Motimahal which has great samosas, we like Sidartha, a bit more upscale, Lahore Tikka House, Udupi Palace,and the Lazy Daisy is an indie cafe. West of Greenwood is not “Little INdia” anymore. It is a quazi- South south Riverdale I guess. Grinder is good, I went to their original location at Main and Gerrard.Love the India festival in the summer. Many new shops and stores opening up, art galleries. Its a wonderful area. Love it. Neighbourly feel on side streets.
LOL. I hate the smell and promotion of E. S.Indian food all the time!! everyone i talk to wants this food.. but, east,south, even west indians, they wont eat good Canadian food!! big joke, u support them, put money in their pockets.. me being 13th genration and then some, Canadian, of mixed Mohawk blood,and other.. I support my cultural foods. travel in Ontario on my motorcycle, and look for Native culture… learn something domestic.. isn’t there a Mohawk restaurant on Gerrard st? give it a go, eat some corn or squash soup. have some good cdn berry tea.. talk to an elder..
You have to be kidding me ‘Disturbed’ some of the most wonderful food in Toronto and a very vibrant colourful neighbourhood. I’m guessing you are one of those people who hasn’t been out of North America.