Must-Try: buttermilk-custard French toast at Emma’s Country Kitchen

Emma’s Country Kitchen on St. Clair West upgrades the brunch staple with stout slabs of apple-cinnamon loaf dipped in buttermilk custard, then fried so the edges are crisp and the centre soft. A dollop of tangy whipped citrus butter adds a rich kick. $12. 1108 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-652-3662.