David Lawrason’s Weekly Wine Pick: a classy, complex French Chablis

David Lawrason’s Weekly Wine Pick: a classy, complex French Chablis

Drouhin Vaudon 2010 Chablis

$19.95 | Burgundy, France | 89 points
I am delighted to see this classy wine fill out the thin ranks of French Chablis at the LCBO. Although the word “chablis” was once recklessly tossed about to describe any light white wine, the name is now religiously controlled under international wine agreements to identify only those chardonnays (mostly unoaked) from vineyards around the sleepy French village of the same name.

The taste: This deftly captures the essentials of unoaked chardonnay, with complex green apple, lemon, chive, bread crust and minerality on the nose and finish. It’s medium weight, stylishly smooth and almost creamy in feel, with a sour-edged finish. Very good persistence and overall very classy.

How to drink it: It can be enjoyed well chilled as a bracing deck-side sipper, especially when served with shrimp, oysters or other seafood appetizers. However, I recently enjoyed a rival and equally good Chablis with a simple sole meunière. Delicious.

LCBO 284026