Matty Matheson, on how fickle food nerds are screwing up Toronto’s restaurant scene:
Whenever a rad restaurant successfully opens, other food people think that they can replicate that. Five more of that version will open up, but maybe two will survive. A restaurant will hit some success as soon as it opens, and then all of those fucking hipsters, foodies, and bloggers will fly over to that new pile of shit and fuck everything up. Then they fly to the next piece of shit. But after about nine months, that’s when you see and understand the identity of what your restaurant is supposed to be, mainly because you’ve had some time to breathe, tighten up, and dial it in. You have to keep doing what you’re doing and make your restaurant the real culture. That’s what Toronto is really good at.
That’s just one of the problems faced by the city’s aspiring restaurateurs, according to Parts and Labour chef Matty Matheson. His somewhat rambling dissection of Toronto’s culinary “middle-child syndrome” was published last week on Vice Munchies. It’s a valid point: too much early buzz can almost certainly overwhelm a new restaurant (sorry, a new pile of shit) that’s trying to find its feet.