In Toronto, the trendiest new restaurants ply an almost cultish kind of casualness, where the greatest sin a new eatery can commit—aside from serving bland food—is taking itself too seriously. Chefs dot their dining rooms and plates with ironic winks: mismatched mason jars, pounding rap music and $30 sirloin burgers served drive thru–style in wax paper wrapping. “Junk” was the theme of last weekend’s Charlie’s Burgers pop-up from ex-Daishō chef Matt Blondin and The Grove’s Ben Heaton, who presented guests, including former Barenaked Ladies member Steven Page, with a meal devoted entirely to upscale fast food. On the menu: a homemade Andouille corndog, a liquid nitrogen–frozen slushie and a flute of Moet Champagne spiked with neon Tang. Here, a slideshow from the $170, 10-course feast.
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