In the ’80s, Australia’s vintners created a wildly popular, new style of red wine with their plush, chest-warming shirazes from the hot Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. But Oz is far from a one-grape wonder, and all along other varieties have jockeyed for recognition. Their day has come as the world wakes up to lighter, fresher wines from cooler, higher altitudes and maritime climates. These new releases make the case.
<strong>$20 | Hunter Valley, New South Wales | 91 points</strong><br />
<p><br />
This eight-year-old classic shows the richness, structure and great acidity that make Hunter Valley semillon a well-aging white. The nose is a blast of petrol, fresh fig peel, brown spice and toast. It’s full-bodied, dry, firm and almost stony with a spicy finish. The length is excellent. <a href="http://lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=724492&ITEM_NUMBER=724492&language=EN" target="_blank">Vintages 724492</a></p>
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant 2006 Elizabeth Semillon
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant 2006 Elizabeth Semillon
<strong>$18 | Great Southern, Western Australia | 88 points</strong><br />
<p><br />
This squeaky clean and bracingly dry riesling from the cool southwest corner of the continent has a relatively light body (12 per cent alcohol) and tart trail of lemony acidity. The nose is lifted with apple, apricot, floral and vague petrol notes. <br />
<a href="http://lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=357426&ITEM_NUMBER=357426&language=EN" target="_blank">Vintages 357426</a></p>
<strong>$25 | High Eden | <br />
90 points</strong><br />
<p><br />
Cooler, higher-altitude areas like High Eden in the Eden Valley of South Australia are creating classic, almost Burgundian, barrel-fermented chardonnays. This maturing, very spicy example has apricot, peat smoke and peanut brittle flavours. It’s intense and riveting with mouth-watering acidity. <a href="http://lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=333211&ITEM_NUMBER=333211&language=EN" target="_blank">Vintages 333211</a></p>
<strong>$24 | Tasmania | 89 Points</strong><br />
<p><br />
The green, forested island state of Tasmania is Australia’s coolest region, making it ideal for pinot noir. Devil’s Corner makes one so delicate and charming, with subtle aromas of roses, strawberry-cherry fruit and well-integrated brown spice, that you’d never guess it’s Australian. There is a hint of sweetness and a dusting of tannin. <a href="http://lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=317966&ITEM_NUMBER=317966&language=EN" target="_blank">Vintages 317966</a></p>
<strong>$27 | McLaren Vale | 87 Points</strong><br />
<p><br />
Grenache, originally from the Mediterranean, loves Australia’s heat. Chapel Hill produces a full-bodied, high-alcohol version (14.5 per cent) with lots of strawberry-cherry jam, and mild notes of mocha, pepper and sage. It’s dense with a warm, peppery finish and a vague medicinal note. <a href="http://lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=262105&ITEM_NUMBER=262105&language=EN" target="_blank">Vintages 262105</a></p>