Five top baguettes, from classic white to multigrain and seed-crusted

1. Thobors’ Multigrain

Chef Marc Thobors, a Parisian transplant, makes the city’s fluffiest, chewiest baguette with the most challenging ingredients—heavy rye flour mixed with malt wheat, oats, barley, flax and sesame seeds. The resulting provençal loaf is satisfyingly dense and flavourful. 627 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-544-1733.

2. Rahier’s Multigrain

If you notice a trail of flaxy crumbs in Leaside, it’s from the uptowners who have impatiently ripped into a Rahier multigrain stick seconds after leaving the store. It’s perfectly understandable once you’ve sampled the subtly savoury baguette yourself. 1586 Bayview Ave., 416-482-0917.

3. Le Matin’s Poppy and Sesame Seed

J. P. Challet spent a year developing his baguette recipe, and he continues to tweak it daily. It’s the kind of perfectionism needed to achieve an onion skin–thin crust and a dense middle. The poppy-and-sesame-seed top adds a subtle, nutty flavour. 5 Coady Ave., 416-778-1509.

4. Petite Thuet’s Traditional

Most bread dough is left to rise once or twice, but Marc Thuet lets his traditional loaf (based on an old Parisian recipe) ferment four times to build its weight and airy texture. To make it impeccably light, he then gently folds the final dough by hand. 1162 Yonge St., 416-924-2777.

5. Jules’ White

At Café Jules Pâtisserie, chef Marc Tournayre sprays his classic white bread with water before popping it in the oven. It gives the golden-brown crust a shiny crackle and a creamy taste. 617 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-481-1666.

(Images: Emma McIntyre)