Toronto’s five best steak frites
The world’s most perfect meat-and-potatoes pairing is a bistro classic. Here, the city’s top five steak frites.
1. Nota Bene’s Cumbrae Farms steak The rub (thyme, rosemary, balsamic and olive oil) offsets the complex, almost gamy flavours of an incredible strip loin nurtured by 60 days of dry aging. Flesh so tender it parts at the nudge of a knife contrasts with the snap of lustily salted frites. $45. 180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400.
2. Jacobs and Co. Alberta rib-eye
Toronto’s best steak house doesn’t serve steak frites, per se, but sumptuously marbled and aged High River Hereford beef ($50). The rib-eye deserves an equally extravagant partner, in this case a side order of tarragon-showered duck-fat fries ($12) that mingles the earthiness of the potatoes with the musk of the deep-fryer. 12 Brant St., 416-366-0200.
3. Delux’s Wellington County flatiron Succulent ribbons of local, grass-fed, garnet-hued meat repose beside a peppery watercress salad. Fresh herbs in maître d’hotel butter and great frites complete the mouth-watering, verdant tableau. $24. 92 Ossington Ave., 416-537-0134.
4. Didier’s strip loin The spectacular crust of this strip loin echoes the wondrous textures of the pommes frites—the city’s best. Chef Didier Leroy soaks potatoes in ice water, then double fries them, enrobing a creamy interior in a crackling, salty exterior. $30. 1496 Yonge St., 416-925-8588.
5. La Palette’s AAAA Black angus strip loin
A fine steak doesn’t need sauce, but a chocolate-port reduction doesn’t hurt, either. Blue cheese (in the horseradish and blue cheese butter) adds a slight funk to the slab of grilled aged beef. Tarragon mayo lends a creamy touch to the fries. $28. 492 Queen St. W., 416-929-4900.
(Illustration: Jacky Dylan)
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