Susur Lee spent his entire career running from traditional Chinese food, determined to be worshipped as a master of invention. Then he turns around and opens a dim sum restaurant. No surprise, he makes some of the best char siu, har gow and beef bao around. And there are many Susur touches, like the five-spiced foie gras and leek-cranberry relish that come with Peking duck, the flower petals strewn across crispy squid, and the peppery yuzu-sake cocktails. The best seats are at the bar facing the glassed-in kitchen, where a troop of cooks work surrounded by bowls of dragon fruit and sesame balls. Quite often, you’ll spy the ponytailed master himself.
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