I’ve been daydreaming about Rob Gentile. I’m in love with his ricotta gnocchi, which he rolls out by hand at Buca Yorkville, his grand new restaurant on the ground floor of the Four Seasons condo tower. He dresses the airy pillows with a foam of creamy robiola cheese, fried sage leaves, crumbled roasted chestnuts and shavings of Molisan white truffle. That’s his signature: a rustic Italian recipe made luxe, like Nonna dolled up in Gucci. The dish rings in at $80, by far the priciest pasta per bite in town.
The original Buca on King West, a favourite of Jamie Oliver and everyone else, is still one of the city’s best restaurants, and Bar Buca, Gentile’s laid-back location a short walk away, has become my favourite stop for a late-night porchetta sandwich and a glass of barolo. At the Yorkville Buca he serves his famous nodini and thin-crust pizzas (gilded with more truffle), but the focus is on top-notch fish and seafood. He installed a special seafood dry-curing unit in the kitchen to make “salami” of octopus, scallop, swordfish or tuna blood combined with pork fat. They’re like fine headcheese, though nowhere near as popular as deep-fried exotica like Atlantic cod tongue or puffed dumplings dyed a deep black with squid ink. I love how the servers wheel over a brass and walnut cart laden with your selection of the day’s catch (perhaps baked branzino), cover the fish with a cloth and crack open a carapace of salt, then present the deboned fillets to the table with the seriousness of a devotional offering. Everything is perfect, including a dessert of zeppole—an Italian doughnut—dusted with powdered sugar and stuffed with a rich pistachio-mascarpone cream.
I could have named the new Buca this year’s number one restaurant based solely on Gentile’s gnocchi. Everything else—the pages of fantastic Italian wines, the elegant Carrara marble bar that doubles as a breakfast pastry counter for hotel guests, the handsome servers in their bespoke caramel leather aprons and the care that went into designing the acoustics so that even when the room is full of excited diners, your friends are never drowned out in a roar—is icing.
Chef Rob Gentile is unstoppable. His original Buca on King West is still one of the city’s best restaurants, and his laid-back Bar Buca is the perfect after-work stopover for snacks and a glass of barolo. With Buca Yorkville, he’s shifted his focus to top-notch seafood—and it’s his most impressive turn yet.
West: 65
East: 4
< It started a bit slow at first, but then after I completed just a few surveys, a WHOLE BUNCH of surveys started flooding my email inbox. Now I am completing surveys every time I get some extra time on my hands. Most of them only take about a half an hour to complete and they are all pretty simple. Paid surveys are the way to go.
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Are there any new restaurants that opened up in the east end last year that deserved to be in the top 20? How about you share some information with us instead of making this stupid counter which is basically just showing the rest of us how uninspiring the east side is.
of all the fighting and petty arguing that goes on on message boars, it’s interesting that a simple stat repeatedly causes you to be douchey like this. but then again, you’ve shown yourself to prefer this persona. if it’s such a hardship to see a simple set of numbers, maybe you should toughen up kid.
Keep it up darren. Even if it’s just to annoy chronic complainers like John.
He doesn’t provide any info. He just reposts a number. If there’s good stuff on the east side, why doesn’t anyone ever share with us whats out there? I honestly would like to know, but all I ever see is a counter.
Never a post that says “oh, if you’re reporting on this, you should check out this place on the east side. It just opened up and its great”
Always just a counter. Never anything else.
Searching for the best is difficult, but when it comes to food it becomes the most interesting hunt. Being a foodie, I love to explore different recipes. I got a lot of opportunity to taste wide variety of dishes. Complete satisfaction of having a dish is obtained only when the dishes are served in professional and dedicated manner.This art of serving make the professional <a href=”http://www.francofreshy.com/services.html”service caterers and talented chefs more popular. Only highly skilled professionals can oversee the operation of a restaurant and give the best results.
john, it has been explained to you already. but i’ll do it just one more time: tl has a reputation for never coming out of their bubble. it’s their job, within this column, to show some ambition and not just cater to the hipster crowd. some at tl say it’s just perception. darren is simply pointing out the obvious and confirming it. and for the record, i, and others, have pointed out plenty of places in the east that are routinely overlooked by tl, just as you’ve chosen to overlook the fact that we have mentioned them. but that’s not of any consequence because you’re just here to complain about a guy posting who doesn’t post what you want. stop acting like it’s some big hardship for you to see a simple pair of numbers. it makes you look petty.
THANK YOU! if seeing a stat is such a big deal, john A either has a life so good that he seeks out things to complain about or his life is so bad that it’s a constant barrage of minor things he feels a need to whine about. i’m thinking the latter.
Not only is Toronto Life Daily Dish narrow in their reporting, they’re now clearly selling out to places that will pay them. I suspected it but it’s confirmed by the Trump place ‘America’ being listed as one of the top openings. Sad to see Toronto Life cave in like that. No credibility after seeing that.
That appearance of America was mind boggling. And John, stop whining. It’s really easy to ignore if you don’t like it.
ive always considered toronto life both naive and lazy to continuously focus on the best of the ‘new’ restaurants. why not simply ‘toronto’s best restaurants’? only after the paint dries (and the crowds fade) will anyone really see any true measure of consistency and operational acumen.
Its been a while since this publication took notice and celebrated restaurants that have have cultivated loyalty through years of unwavering professionalism, warmth and savvy; the ones that have delivered great experiences- time and time again.
There are endless eventualities that can affect a restaurants end product, but to stay consistent through all of the shifting dynamics is the definition of a great restauranteur.
To ride the wave is easy. to stay afloat afterwards takes a great deal more balance.
I SO agree. They’re mostly pandering to the hipster types now-partly because they are so easy to extract money from. And what better way to not put in the effort than to focus on the constant openings/and closings of hip tacquerias in Kensington and fusion BS on Ossington/Parkdale. That’s why I like what Darren is doing-no commentary, no snide comments, no trolling or arguing. Just showing that Toronto Life has no interest in putting in effort anymore. I get that they don’t want to bother traveling outside of the West but they’re at least getting a warning sign that people, like me, won’t want to bother reading the Daily Dish anymore. Or maybe just call it ‘West Toronto Life. and be honest. Either way, my interest in Daily Dish is quickly waning. Dying faster than a hip new burger joint on Queen West.
well said, Danielle
You’re listed as having 6 comments made. 5 of them are bellyaching about Darren’s posts. It gives the impression that you have nothing to actually say and likely created an account just to focus on how you don’t want to focus on what Darren does. I think you’re disingenuous and just want something to complain about.
“Judy” – until you can prove to me that you (and a few other Darren defenders conveniently using aliases) aren’t just Darren yourself, conversation over. If ‘Darren’ even is the pest’s real name.
To everyone else: just look at this Darren piece of work’s profile and how willing he is to engage in snarky, combative exchanges on countless other posts… yet never to address criticism of his stats. However there is always conveniently a whole fleet of the same phantom accounts who DO chime in… every single time out. In a remarkably identical tone and sharply critical manner as to each other and to him in his other posts. And the only time they ever do seem to show up on Toronto Life forums is to defend their man. Seriously, NOWHERE else on here. Always to voraciously stand behind the stat of an absolute online stranger… again, every single time out. Interesting!
So anyway, that’s that. You can draw your own conclusions.