Best New Restaurants 2012: No. 9 Volos

The slick Greek estiatorio on the northern edge of the Financial District bears no trace of the motherland’s economic distress. Under graceful arches, clusters of Brooks Brothers suits and loose-tied management teams recline in ample banquettes, BlackBerrys carefully placed at wrist level beside heavy cloth napkins. Last July, Andreas Antoniou, a rookie restaurateur, overhauled Mediterra, his father’s stuck-in-1996 dining room, instantly upping the standard of Greek food in the city. The wholeheartedly Hellenic menu is executed with a light touch by long-time Mediterra chef Reza Parsia, who turns out impeccably timed seafood: grilled Moroccan octopus, gently charred on the outside and velvety on the inside; giant sea scallops so impossibly caramelized, rich and sweet they belong on a pescatarian dessert menu. And the best part? You leave feeling satisfied yet light of step like you’re on an Aegean holiday, instead of garlic-logged like you’re trundling home from the Danforth. 133 Richmond St. W., 416-861-1211. See our listing for more information »

(Images: Raina and Wilson)