Piccolo Piano Pizzeria

Last fall, Victor Barry transformed Café Cancan into a place where pizza comes first. The room’s Pepto-pink walls were coated in carmine red and hung with a neon sign proclaiming “pizza is life,” which we can’t argue with. Now it’s less Barbie’s dream bistro, more Venetian bordello. Crusts are cooked in a wood-fired oven at a blistering 1,000-degrees Fahrenheit, until they’re super-soft and bursting with bubbles. The ham-and-cheese, with Berkshire pork, cheddar, hazelnuts and a whole lot of brown butter is a hit. 89 Harbord St., @piccolopianopizzeria