What’s on the menu at Louf, chef Fadi Kattan’s new Palestinian restaurant

It’s home cooking, modernized (but not molecular)

By Filipa Pajevic| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves

| December 17, 2024

What's on the menu at Louf, chef Fadi Kattan's new Palestinian restaurant

Name: Louf Contact: 501 Davenport Rd., @louf.toronto
Neighbourhood: Casa Loma Owners: Chef Fadi Kattan and Nicole Mankinen Chefs: Elias Hashem and Guy Rahme (with Anna Patrowicz as sommelier) Accessibility: Partially accessible

Internationally acclaimed Franco-Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan dreams of making Palestinian cuisine a mainstream choice. “When people make dinner plans, instead of asking, ‘Are we going to have Italian, Mexican or Chinese tonight?’ I want them to think of Palestinian food too,” he says—not for politics or novelty but simply because it’s delicious.

When Nicole Mankinen—editor, writer and now Louf co-founder—first reached out to Kattan in 2022, it was to ask for his hilbeh recipe, a fenugreek semolina cake. After months of exchanging recipes, she invited him to Toronto to explore the possibility of adding Palestinian cuisine to the city’s diverse culinary scene.

Louf co-founders chef Fadi Kattan and Nicole Mankinen — Louf co-founders Fadi Kattan and Nicole Mankinen

Kattan, who lives with his family in Bethlehem, visited Toronto the following year and took a liking to the city. Noticing the absence of a distinctly Palestinian restaurant (the cuisine is often labelled “Levantine” or “Mediterranean”), he considered the idea—and a luncheon hosted at the Black Creek Community Farm galvanized it. “We invited about 35 people, and everybody showed up,” says Mankinen. “It was like a family reunion.”

For Mankinen, food is at the heart of any community, and having a Palestinian restaurant in Toronto will help ensure that her Palestinian family feels represented and connected to the beauty of their culture. Kattan and Mankinen seek to cultivate a sense of belonging at Louf, inviting visitors to bring their curiosity and their appetites, explore the cuisine and experience the comfort of a meal steeped in family tradition.

The Food

Kattan and his team created a menu that feels like home and looks modern at the same time. But don’t expect high-concept, molecular cuisine, he says. “I won’t give you a floating gas bubble of sumac.”

Each meal is meticulously crafted to honour its cultural roots while reflecting its current setting. With ingredients sourced from local farmers, each dish reflects Kattan’s deep appreciation for the local terroir, something he’s known for. “I can’t be championing Um Nabil, the lady who sells me herbs in Bethlehem, and not care about Eric, an Indigenous farmer foraging sorrel on his land here,” he says.

The bread course, served with various dips and pickles, at Louf, a Palestinian restaurant — The breads—ka’ek al quds (sesame bread), za’atar bread (rye, spelt with fennel and anise seeds) and taboun (stone-baked Palestinian flatbread)—come from Evelyn’s Crackers, a local bakery. Kattan emphasizes that respecting the craft of food means recognizing the artisans who are extremely good at what they do. “I know how to make bread”, he says. “But compared to what Evelyn does with ancient grains—of course not.” He describes her as a magician. “They had to drag me out of her bakery. I was like, *Can I stay, please? Can you make 10 other breads?*” $4, $5 and $3, respectively

A mushroom salad — The mushroom salad with maramiya (sage) and mardakoush (marjoram) is inspired by Kattan’s mother’s recipe. “Our take was to pickle the cremini and sauté the black oyster mushrooms with sage and marjoram,” he says. After the restaurant opened, Kattan’s mother, Micheline, asked if people liked the dish. “She said, ‘I still think you should serve it warm’—and I said no,” Kattan laughs. “If I’m contrarian, it’s because I’m just like her.” The salad is juicy, with a bit of crunch, and refreshingly vibrant on the palate. $18

The shorbat qare’ is the first soup Kattan served at Fawda, his restaurant in Bethlehem. He correctly believes it’s ideal for cold Canadian winters. “It’s a little reminder that we have seasons in Bethlehem,” he says. Roasted squash with za’atar is sprinkled with laban jameed (dried, preserved yogurt). It’s comfort in a bowl and Kattan’s favourite dish on the menu. $18

Freekeh — Here we have the salatet al freekeh, which combines the grain with charred cauliflower and parsnip, caramelized onions and walnuts in a garlic-lemon vinaigrette. $20

Hilbeh with maple syrup — To Kattan, the hilbeh with maple syrup is especially significant. “I mean, that’s really where the story started,” he says, referring to his first interactions with Mankinen, who didn’t know this dessert would be on the menu until the opening. “I was very moved by that,” she says, “but that’s Fadi.” In Palestine, the fenugreek semolina cake is soaked with simple syrup and a bit of rose water, but Kattan went with maple syrup this time, because Canada. It’s served with almond brittle for a little crunch. $15

The Drinks

Kattan brought sommelier and mixologist Anna Patrowicz to Toronto from the UK to build the cocktails and curate the wine list, which showcases both Palestinian and Canadian bottles. Her approach celebrates Palestinian flavours, so the drinks integrate seamlessly with the menu.

Like a forager, she scouted Louf’s kitchen for ingredients to repurpose and make the drinks even more delicious. And the non-alcoholic options are just as elaborate. “The drinks should honour the menu and acknowledge that not everyone drinks alcohol,” says Patrowicz. While skilled in wine, she relishes the hands-on creativity of crafting cocktails. “You can get your hands dirty with stuff like that—it’s actually fun,” she says.

The asal al-sumac drink at Louf — A sip of the asal al-sumac is like a stroll through a blooming garden. Notes of wild honey, blueberry and sumac flood the senses. “The drinks are crafted from my journey of learning about Palestinian culture, cuisine and way of life,” says Patrowicz. $16

This hilbeh cocktail is a mix of fenugreek, mastica, vanilla and thyme, with a splash of vodka — This hilbeh in a glass is a mix of fenugreek, mastica, vanilla and thyme with a splash of vodka. “I was like, I love this dessert so much, how do I make it drinkable?” says Patrowicz. A non-alcoholic version is also available. $18

The ruz bil yansoun is a combination of arak, gin, rice water and Angostura bitters. Arak is often said to be one of the first spirits, discovered accidentally by Jabir ibn Hayyan, a ninth-century alchemist renowned for advancing the science of distillation. “It is one of the most nostalgic spirits,” says Patrowicz. $21

A 2019 chardonnay from the Ashkar winery in the upper Galilee — A 2019 chardonnay from the Ashkar winery in upper Galilee. It’s deliciously creamy with notes of hay. $28 per glass

Piquette tranquille de pinot noir from the Last House vineyard in Prince Edward County — The Piquette tranquille de pinot noir from Last House Vineyard in Prince Edward County is subtle yet lasting. $16 per glass

The Space

Both Akub and Louf were once homes, which resonated with Kattan and Mankinen. While the decor is minimal, the spirit of bringing people together fills every corner—especially around the large family dining table on the second floor, Kattan’s favourite spot.