Weekly Lunch Pick: the $22 Lunch Special at George

Bay Street bistros can be frantic at midday, but at George, a few streets over, noon hour is a tranquil experience, set in a room of wood, linen and wrought iron. Pricey at dinner, the Queen East restaurant is more accessible at lunch with its wallet-friendly $22 special featuring any plate from the a la carte menu, one side and a dish of complimentary tapenade with fingers of focaccia. Our main is a layered affair: gooey goat cheese gratin adds depth and complexity to a rare beef tenderloin medallion that’s set in a sweet potato cake. Fresh blackberries and crisp green bean caponata punch through the fat. The daily side also amazes: curry-stuffed okra pods encased in tempura and juxtaposed by a mango, tomato and red onion salad. The cost: $28.86, including tax and tip. The time: 55 minutes. George, 111C Queen St. E. (at Mutual St.), 416-863-6006, georgeonqueen.com.