The north Toronto grilled-eel specialist Jang Uh Plus offers subtle tastes rather than Korean cuisine’s usual boldness. Its chili-zinged eel is crispy and fatty, and completely fun to eat when rolled in a perilla leaf with raw garlic and jalapeños. 9625 Yonge St., 647-258-1000.
The cooks at Cho Dang Soon Tofu, a ridiculously cheap, homely mom-and-pop shop, make custardy tofu with unparalleled expertise. Stone-bowl stews are made with sweet kimchee broth and come with a raw egg you crack and stir in at the table. 5130 Dundas St. W., 416-234-1161.
Tofu Village in Bloor Street’s Koreatown serves crisp, golden, glorious pajung (seafood pancakes) with bits of shrimp, octopus and scallion for bite. The chap chae, sesame oil–doused sweet-potato noodles, are perfect cold-weather sustenance. 681 Bloor St. W., 647-345-3836.
Loungey Koko Share Bar is a pricier people-watching place with quality Japanese-inflected dishes. The roasted pork bossam—a lettuce wrap of meat in kimchee with tangy-salty condiments—pairs beautifully with a soju cocktail. 81 Yorkville Ave., 416-850-6135.
(Image: The soon dubu at Swish by Han, by John Cullen)