The end to a meal at Baldwin Village’s Reforma is flan-tastic

Reforma ★½ 35 Baldwin St., 647-748-6448

Menus here warn that tables are subject to a one-and-a-half-hour limit from the time of seating. There’s no need to rush: it’s possible to circle the concise menu of this Baldwin Village spot twice in that amount of time. It certainly doesn’t take long to choose a drink from the abbreviated cocktail list, but the mojitos and margaritas are made well, the latter benefitting from the smoke of a charred lemon-wheel garnish. Bright, cilantro-loaded guacamole comes with a trio of chicharrones, house-made tortilla chips and, alas, almost-rubbery yuca chips. The best of the tacos loads a crunchy tortilla base with chicken tinga, beans, pickled onions and salsa verde. But the single-ply corn tortillas are no match for the tacos gobernador, which quickly disintegrate into a puddle of shrimp and melted cheese. The chocolate flan spiked with chipotle pepper and laced with candied orange peel is a nice way to end a meal here. And don’t worry: there’ll be plenty of time to spare.