Review: Oddseoul, the Korean hipster dive from the brothers behind Swish

Oddseoul  ★½
90 Ossington Ave.

From Leeto and Leemo Han, the brothers behind Swish by Han in the Financial District, comes this new Ossington dive. It follows a winning formula: deliciously junky Asian-American bar snacks, cheap tall cans, bourbon cocktails and a ragged dining room. Leemo uses the deep fryer to impressive effect with the crunchy, airy-battered chicken wings, and torches delicate slices of cured mackerel tableside, creating a perfect combination of cold, buttery flesh and hot caramelized skin. Ssäm platters give diners a chance to assemble their own rice paper rolls of pork, beef and seafood. The pork belly and shrimp version, garnished with cilantro, Thai basil and sweet pickled carrot and daikon, is satisfying surf-and-turf. The Korean cheesesteak comes stacked with sweet, saucy bulgogi rib-eye, blessedly gooey processed cheese and a mess of caramelized peppers and onions. It’s the ultimate late-night beer sop. Agoraphobes, beware: on weekends, the place packs more scenesters and thumping bass than a Junction warehouse party.