“We’re talking about fire and knives here, so it’s going to be intense”: Top Chef ’s Gail Simmons on her delicious homecoming

Twenty years ago, Gail Simmons was a Toronto-based food writer with a passion for French cuisine and dreams of taking over the publishing industry. Then a chance audition to judge a fledgling reality cooking show changed everything. Over the next 21 seasons, Top Chef would establish itself as the gold standard of culinary competitions, standing atop a mountain of copy-cat competitors. And Simmons—who doesn’t believe in mean judges—has become a foodie fairy godmother to the hundreds of contestants who have come through. Season 22, premiering March 13 on Hayu and Bravo, is set in Toronto, meaning Simmons is finally hosting on home turf. Here, she talks about how the show has changed (less gossip, more gastro), which local spots she recommended to cast and crew, and where her parents still go for eggplant sandwiches.

Bravo’s Top Chef has toured dozens of American cities but never Canada. Why did you finally decide to head north? Actually, we briefly visited Vancouver and Whistler in season nine, but this time we’re in Canada for the full season. And why not? We go wherever there’s good food, and that’s definitely true of Toronto and the rest of the country, now more than ever. Though I could have made that statement five years ago. Lots of Americans know Toronto, but they’re still catching up with the diversity of incredible food in the city.

And what’s the biggest misconception Canadians have about the Toronto food scene? Maybe other Canadians think Toronto is all about expensive and trendy restaurants without a lot of substance. The city is one of the most diverse in the world, with thousands of authentic family-owned restaurants representing dozens of cuisines. It just takes time to discover them. Rising real estate prices and shifting immigration patterns mean that they are often deep in the suburbs. But, if you’re up for the adventure, Toronto can be one of the most exciting and eye-opening cities for food.

You grew up in Forest Hill. Did your roots play into the producers’ decision to come here? There was already reason enough to come, but once Toronto was confirmed, I started sharing great locations, chefs and guest judges with the team. I can’t get into specifics, but I promise: Toronto is going to look beautiful. Top Chef’s locations are its secret weapon, particularly since so many food shows shoot in the same studio from one episode to the next. We treat our settings like main characters. We want to show off each city’s rich culinary histories and local ingredients.

Can we expect stereotypical challenges with maple syrup and poutine? Poutine has become a unifying dish for Canada, even though it was originally something you only got in Quebec. So yes, you might see that in a challenge, but there is so much more to Canadian cuisine. We’re looking beyond the clichés.

Related: Inside the kitchen of Eden Grinshpan, host of Top Chef Canada

You mentioned location as one of Top Chef’s secret weapons. Any others? Most shows don’t last two seasons, let alone 20. I think we’re a standard setter. I remember doing my screen test back in 2005. I was working as an editor at Food and Wine magazine, and Bravo asked if any of us would be interested in appearing on the show. Project Runway had just been a big success, and Top Chef would follow the same template, only with food. At the time, we were the only food competition on TV other than Iron Chef, which was obviously brilliant but very different. Our show has also always been about professionals, not amateurs. These are chefs at the peak of their game, and their skills are compelling. And then our casting team does an incredible job finding fun characters. It’s not simply about casting the 10 best chefs available. Our show is also about story and entertainment.

And drama! That happened more in the early seasons, where we’d highlight conflicts between contestants back at the dorm. Today, the drama tends to unfold in the kitchen. We’re still talking about fire and knives here, so of course there’s a lot of intensity.

On a scale of Simon Cowell to Paula Abdul, how would you describe your vibe as a judge? That’s not the scale anymore. When we started, there was this idea that we needed a nice judge and a villain judge. But that’s dated. Food TV isn’t like a song or a dance, where the viewers can clearly see the quality on display. The audience can’t taste the things we’re judging, so the key is that they trust our opinions and that they like us. That doesn’t mean I’m not honest, but I am also a cheerleader for the contestants.

Do you think Top Chef has improved the culinary landscape? Definitely—we’re very proud of our impact. Two decades in, there are hundreds of restaurants opened by former Top Chef winners and contestants. The show has changed the economics of dining in America. Fans will travel across the country to these places.

Has it made diners smarter too? You’ve joked about “creating monsters.” We’ve taught our viewers terms and techniques that didn’t used to exist in the public consciousness—explaining molecular gastronomy, how to sous-vide, the meaning of mise en place, the role of mirepoix and the importance of resting meat. That’s what I meant when I said that we’ve created monsters. I’ve overheard people at restaurants critiquing the food using language that I’m sure they picked up from the show. Related: “I would absolutely hate to see it close”—Toronto chefs on their favourite (older) restaurants

Dining out is certainly driving tourism in Toronto. But even successful restaurateurs like Jen Agg and Matty Matheson worry that customers’ obsession with new restaurants results in the death of old classics. Do you agree? That phenomenon is not unique to Toronto, unfortunately. Cultivating regular, loyal diners is the plight of all restaurants—if they can even survive their first two years. Today, costs are up, and the landscape keeps shifting based on what’s popular on social media, so it’s harder than ever to stay relevant. I am guilty as charged—it’s my job to dine out, and I always want to try new spots. Except when I’m home in Brooklyn, where I have my go-tos. That may be the key to survival: restaurateurs need to value their neighbours, the locals who walk by every day.

Filming in your hometown, did the cast and crew hound you for restaurant recos? They did, and I also got to visit some of the newer restaurants that I’ve been wanting to try: Casa Paco, Dreyfus, Sunnys Chinese, Quetzal and Brodflour. For recommendations, I mentioned spots like Bar Isabel, Pizzeria Badiali, Osteria Giulia, Harbord Bakery and Barberian’s Steak House, where my parents used to go on date nights when I was a kid.

What Toronto neighbourhoods should visiting gourmands check out? I love shopping for Asian ingredients—produce, seafood, meat—in Chinatown, the way I used to with my mom when I was little. And I love the eclectic nature of Kensington Market. You can see the legacies of the immigrant communities that have lived there and set up shop over the years. Kensington can be touristy, but it still has such a distinct character.

St. Lawrence Market also feels like a mandatory shooting location. It’s such an amazing spot. My parents still visit Carousel almost every Saturday for eggplant sandwiches. It does make an appearance—but not in the way you’d think.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.