Best New Restaurants 2012: No. 8 Modus

Chef Bruce Woods made his name at Centro, that once-great standard-bearer for Italian cuisine in Toronto, before decamping to Brassaii on King West. Now, after two years of cooking for the bottle service and Ed Hardy crowd, he’s returned to the simpler pleasures of refined service and hushed rooms at Modus, his new Bay Street power restaurant. One bite of butternut squash agnolotti in a deep, dark pool of marsala with slivers of braised duck and truffle pesto and it’s apparent Woods is back in top form. Pan-seared diver scallops, done in countless restaurants, are beautifully reima­gined: the plump orbs are dotted with salsa made from fennel, bittersweet blood oranges and salty black olives, and sit on a lush streak of parsnip purée. Likewise, he makes a humble olive oil cake opulent with silky lemon custard and an exquisite lemon-scented olive oil ice cream. The dining room isn’t as teeming as that of Earl’s across the street—but it’s only a matter of time. 145 King St. W., 416-861-9977. See our listing for more information »

(Images: Raina and Wilson)