True True Diner

Suzanne Barr’s fan club (I’m a card-carrying member) prayed night and day for her return after the great tragedy that was the end of her Gerrard East restaurant, Saturday Dinette. Now she’s back in an airier and just-as-busy space, with a menu that revives many of her all-time classics. It instantly became my new favourite weekend brunch destination. No one else makes such massive yet fluffy buckwheat pancakes, loaded with clouds of whipped, thyme-scented ricotta and a pool of apple compote; such juicy burgers, the patty combining brisket and ground lamb; or, my go-to, a scrambled egg plate with cheese grits and a sublimely buttery biscuit. There are lighter options, including superb salads and a white bean shakshuka, but who said the weekend was a time to hold back?

True True Diner, 169 King St. E., truetruediner.com