The Ritz-Carlton’s handsome restaurant has finally found its footing. A pair of barely cooked scampi perch on soft curds of burrata held in place by the natural bowl of an artichoke heart. Bitter, bright red radicchio leaves are tamed by mellow sautéed mushrooms in a warming autumn salad. Sliced and arrayed around the bone, the sup-remely tender, slightly funky steak Fiorentina is one of the city’s great cuts of meat. Airy and smooth Roman gnocchi, made with semolina instead of potato, make a fine accompaniment, as does a bowl of glistening braised escarole studded with raisins and hazelnuts.