This bright and airy pizza place on Parliament artfully splits the difference between sit-down and takeout, Italian tradition and Hogtown trends. But great pizza is all about the dough, and the foundation of these Roman pies is a blend of Canadian all-purpose and Italian 00 flours that yields a mild-tasting, blistered crust when cooked properly. It’s shown off to great effect in the Mr. Hand, a riff on a Hawaiian that mingles mild guanciale and creamy ricotta with sweet pineapple and piquant pickled jalapeños. Undercooked dough, however, spoils an otherwise delectable calzone jam-packed with ricotta and spicy coins of chorizo. All of the pies pair wonderfully with any of the microbrews on tap or the easy-drinking vino served, suitably, in tumblers.