Seven years in, this West Queen West pioneer continues to offer generous plates of comfort food in its cramped, charmingly dingy space. On weekends, when the place hosts a dance party, the lighting is so dim that anyone over 28 might find themselves squinting at the menu. Once deciphered, however, the card offers approachable fare. A starter of pistachio pâté looks and tastes like a slice of good stuffing, packed with nuts, soft shreds of onion, sunflower seeds and carrots, and sided by super-fresh crostini and olives. Two plump house-made pork sausages are mild and juicy; to ensure no one goes home hungry, they’re accompanied by mixed greens, a dull potato salad and two large slices of grilled sourdough.