Maybe there’s a restaurant somewhere in the world that offers a better view than the breathtaking panorama of Niagara Falls greeting patrons on the 13th floor of the Sheraton Hotel, but it’s not likely. The view is the most exciting thing about Jamie Kennedy’s new restaurant. Many items, like a pedestrian tourtière, are perfunctory. Sometimes, however, the cooking shines: beef brisket poutine brings a plate of Kennedy’s hand-cut fries topped with savoury, tender meat and a blanket of sharp cheddar. A spectacular brandy snap cannoli ends the meal on a high note. The wine list, selected by wine columnist Tony Aspler, offers a number of reasonably priced Ontario vintages.