The nightly four-course prix fixe menu at Lynn Crawford and Lora Kirk’s Riverdale restaurant is based around local and seasonal ingredients, and the hearty food tastes just like Mom’s—if Mom were a top chef and happened to have boisterous singing waiters hanging around the house. On one visit, an heirloom potato salad had the perfect balance of acid and fat from sharp blue cheese and fresh horseradish; Crawford’s famous cheddar biscuits sop up the leftover vinaigrette. Grilled flank steak with caramelized onions and rosemary jus is ultra-tender—quite a feat with a tough cut. It’s served with cheesy polenta, sweetish black kale and mild roasted cauliflower. It’s easy to get stuffed on the heaping portions, but there are still two more courses: a cheese du jour served with house-made preserves, and dessert: a fabulously rich (and decidedly not local) coconut-pecan cream pie. Prix fixe $49.