The atmosphere is authentically corporate, a vast expanse of white linen swaddled in greige accents—including the suits of the Bay Streeters who flock here. It’s no wonder, then, that the food inhabits that liminal space between North American red sauce and traditional Italian. Butternut squash agnolotti samples the worst of both worlds: gluey handmade pasta suffocates under a sauce with the texture, taste and appearance of sweet béchamel. Much better is the veal piccata with parmesan-roasted cauliflower and a lemon–white wine caper sauce that zings; it sparks the palate with multiple Maillard reactions. Dessert stands out, especially an almond and raspberry tart that layers a sweet-sour lemon curd with rich frangipane in a buttery pastry shell. The wine list includes both bargains and blowouts, and prompt yet unobtrusive service ensures everything flows smoothly.