Jay Carter spent a decade cooking under Susur Lee, and two years as head chef at Centro, before striking out on his own. His dad helped renovate a former bar into a cramped but elegantly understated room of polished concrete, softly lit marble tables and exposed brick. His menu betrays a Scandinavian influence, like a salad of smoked trout, oniony cream, dill, microgreens and salty pops of roe, or cubes of confit chicken under a crunchy blanket of deep-fried rye. Not all of his experiments succeed: whitefish is perfectly steamed but overpowered by a zealous dusting of smoked paprika. Orange zest and a puddle of crème fraîche elevate a humble walnut tea cake to the sublime. Closed Sunday and Monday.