Review: Soos brings Malay street food and clever bar snacks to Ossington
Soos ★
94 Ossington St., 416-901-7667
This new family-run spot mixes familiar Ossington cues—dangling Edison bulbs, sharing plates and citrusy cocktails—with refreshing details, like pops of tropical colour from chili-red chairs and patterned blue wallpaper. The result is a restaurant greater than its parts, one that delivers classic Malaysian dishes alongside clever bar snacks without seeming kitschy. To wit: meaty chicken wings coated in sweet chili sauce and peanuts, and Soos’ poutine—a serious new contender for the city’s best—which features crispy hand-cut fries covered in galangal-spiked lamb curry and fresh Quebec curds. Char kway teow is a rice noodle dish with grilled prawns and crunchy bean sprouts, plus terrific house-made sambal, a spicy chili paste with garlic and fish sauce. To finish, spears of pineapple grilled until sticky, served with Greg’s ice cream.
![](http://www.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=https://torontolife.com/food/review-soos/&title=Review: Soos brings Malay street food and clever bar snacks to Ossington&picture=https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/TMTWSoos-624x395.jpg&description=[caption id="attachment_245222" align="aligncenter" width="656"] Sweet chili chicken wings (Image: Caroline Aksich)[/caption]
Soos ★
94 Ossington St., 416-901-7667
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This new family-run spot mixes familiar Ossington cues—dangling Edison bulbs, sharing plates and citrusy cocktails—with refreshing details, like pops of tropical colour from chili-red chairs and patterned blue wallpaper. The result is a restaurant greater than its parts, one that delivers classic Malaysian dishes alongside clever bar snacks without seeming kitschy. To wit: meaty chicken wings coated in sweet chili sauce and peanuts, and Soos’ poutine—a serious new contender for the city’s best—which features crispy hand-cut fries covered in galangal-spiked lamb curry and fresh Quebec curds. Char kway teow is a rice noodle dish with grilled prawns and crunchy bean sprouts, plus terrific house-made sambal, a spicy chili paste with garlic and fish sauce. To finish, spears of pineapple grilled until sticky, served with Greg’s ice cream.
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That isn’t Char Kway Teow in the picture, but rather it’s the chicken wings. Char Kway Teow looks a lot different: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_kway_teow
How can a new restaurant that serves poutine that is “a serious contender for the city’s best”, not to mention other delights, get only 1 star? Reviewers, don’t be so stingy!