Review: slow-smoked Southern barbecue at Marky and Sparky’s in the Junction

Marky and Sparky’s ★½
520 Annette St., 647-748-4227

The new 10-seater smokehouse at Annette and Runnymede injects a much-needed dose of energy into an area underserved by decent restaurants. The decor, courtesy of Restaurant Takeover, is a perfunctory mix of shingled walls and garage-door windows, but the slow-smoked barbecue is the stuff of gluttonous Southern road trips. Beef brisket is rich and full of smoky flavour that’s emboldened by a side of golden caramelized onions. Two and a half hours in the smoker turn hickory and applewood baby back ribs into a luscious, messy heap. Fennel sausages are pink and juicy, with just the right level of licorice flavour. The brisk takeout business and 8 p.m. closing time mean supplies can run low by 6:30. Unlicensed.