Review: Los Colibris brings sophisticated Mexican cuisine to a touristy strip of King West
Los Colibris ★★★
220 King St. W., 416-979-7717
If your relationship to Mexican food extends no further than taco joints run by gringo hipsters, then it’s time to experience the joys of Mexican cuisine as interpreted by chef Elia Herrera. She presents the dishes of her native Veracruz with technique and polish in a dining room that’s just as sophisticated (the highlight is the bar with its elaborate tile mosaic depicting hummingbirds drinking nectar from flowers). Elegantly presented dishes, like rajas poblanas, a marvelous, creamy casserole of chicken, corn and poblano pepper to be mopped up with housemade corn tortillas, configure familiar south of the border flavours in novel ways. The only bland note of the evening is a rice-stuffed chayote squash in a pool of peanut and sesame tlatonile sauce, a disappointing vegetarian option that needs salt. Gracious servers help diners choose between affordable wines or tequila-based cocktails, and a roster of sensational desserts. Our favourite was a flan de chocolate with orange confit, guajillo and burnt milk ice cream.