Must-try: a pointillist-perfect take on traditional beef tartare from Yours Truly
In this era of underground supper clubs and artisanal food trucks, beef tartare, once the acquired taste of plutocrats and gourmands, seems positively ordinary. Jeffrey Claudio, the wizard-chef at the ambitious Ossington restaurant Yours Truly, has revived the classic through deconstruction. He mixes crunchy puffed wheat berries and pickled anchovies into a hash of dry-aged Cumbrae’s strip loin, and polka-dots the round with a trio of sauces: a purée of capers and parsley, a sous-vide egg yolk reduction and a shallot-anchovy mayo. On top, he adds a sprinkle of tender larch needles that deliver a citrusy hit. Every forkful is fresh, light and a rare treat—the work of a chef with easy confidence. Prix fixe only. $45. 229 Ossington Ave., 416-533-2243.