Introducing: Sorrel, the new Yorkville spot from Prego’s former chef
Back in its halcyon days, Prego Della Piazza was chic even by Yorkville standards. So when landlords opted not to renew its lease, forcing it to close earlier this year, it was not without a bit of foodie sentimentality. The good news is that executive chef and general manager Faro Chiniforoush—previously of Sperling’s and Rosewater Supper Club—has taken nearly the entire Prego team and opened his own place slightly north on Yorkville Avenue. Welcome to Sorrel.
The restaurant has been open for several weeks now in the space below Harmony Furniture Co. Its subterranean setting means lots of limestone and mirrored glass to retain as much natural light as possible. At around 40 seats, it’s quite a bit smaller than its predecessor. But this is most certainly not Prego. Chiniforoush has put together a French-leaning Mediterranean menu that’s moderately priced and centered on a communal dining concept. Along with a selection of charcuterie and tapas, the salads and mains are portioned out for easy mixing and matching between friends.
Chiniforoush says his new place is already popular with former Prego regulars, as well as the after-work crowd, who wind down with such fare as chorizo (cured in-house) with beans and olives ($10), and a trio of prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed with goat cheese ($14). In mains, there are three types of fish on offer (pickerel, spigola and halibut, $26–$27), along with braised beef short ribs ($22) and duck confit ($21), cured for 24 hours in herbs and Maldon salt, then slowly cooked for another 10. Cheese plates ($16 for three) are composed of specimens from Stratford’s acclaimed Monforte Dairy. All of it is set to a matched wine list by former Prego sommelier Serge Cambou.
Sorrel, 84 Yorkville Ave. (at Bellair St.), 416-926-1010, sorrelrestaurant.ca.