(Image: Renée Suen)
After 16 years at the top, Canoe , one of the city’s culinary beacons, closed its doors on New Year’s Day for a renovation. Unlike most restaurants, they actually completed it on schedule. Although we previewed Canoe ’s overhauled space during its Winterlicious opening, the Oliver and Bonacini flagship officially relaunched last week with a completed dining room and revamped menu, so we thought we’d take a closer look.
The most dramatic change in the million-dollar facelift is the conversion of the minimalistic Yabu Pushelberg design to a warmer room with a palette of browns and taupes. Anacleto Design , responsible for the change, is the same group behind Oliver and Bonacini Café Grill and recent renovations to Biff’s Bistro (the husband-and-wife team are Yabu Pushelberg alums).
In the dining room, the upper-level dividing walls have been removed to open up the space, and a hand-beaten copper backdrop adds a bit of flair. Bare walnut tabletops replace linens, accompanied by mohair-upholstered Saarinen-style chairs. Tipplers can belly up to a dramatic soapstone bar or grab a seat along the window counter for a view of Lake Ontario. Canoe’s two private dining rooms (with capacity for 30 and 40, respectively) were also upgraded with better soundproofing and a unified look.
Notable nods to Canadiana are scattered throughout. The bar sports a pair of caribou-head etchings inspired by the design on the quarter, as well as 150 beaver-embossed porcelain jars. Three custom-carved antler chandeliers by Brothers Dressler dangle in the main room, while an eye-catching topographical bronze and copper wall map of Canada by Unit Five dominates the private room.
Executive chef Anthony Walsh and chef de cuisine John Horne have added some new plates to their regionally focused menu. Classics, like the hand-chopped Cumbrae Farms steak tartare ($24 at dinner) and the popular corn nut–hazelnut milk chocolate cake ($12) are joined by braised short ribs with a tree syrup–glaze ($28). Slices of medium-rare venison are paired with Soma chocolate ($47), and foie gras is served with tea-smoked duck breast ($44). The PB&J sandwich, a lunchbox staple, is reinvented with baker David Wilson ’s buttery brioche, Brampton-grown Kernal peanuts, house-preserved Concord grape jelly and a seared slice of La Ferme foie gras ($27). Come springtime, expect fiddleheads, morels and other seasonal finds to make their way onto plates and the ever-changing six-course tasting menu ($100 per person).
56752 Unusually, there are still a few tables available at Canoe this year (Image: Renée Suen) The restaurant’s 54th floor entrance Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Restaurants-main-entrance-on-the-54th-floor.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Restaurants-main-entrance-on-the-54th-floor.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Restaurants-main-entrance-on-the-54th-floor.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/restaurants-main-entrance-on-the-54th-floor/ restaurants-main-entrance-on-the-54th-floor 0 0
The restaurant’s 54th floor entrance
56746 (Image: Renée Suen) Dining room entrance Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-entrance-and-bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-entrance-and-bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-entrance-and-bar.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/dining-room-entrance-and-bar/ dining-room-entrance-and-bar 0 0
Dining room entrance
56747 (Image: Renée Suen) The new dining room Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-from-the-SW-corner-of-the-room.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-from-the-SW-corner-of-the-room.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dining-room-from-the-SW-corner-of-the-room.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/dining-room-from-the-sw-corner-of-the-room/ dining-room-from-the-sw-corner-of-the-room 0 0
The new dining room
56754 (Image: Renée Suen) Canoe’s soapstone bar Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/soapstone-bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/soapstone-bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/soapstone-bar.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/soapstone-bar/ soapstone-bar 0 0
Canoe’s soapstone bar
56743 (Image: Renée Suen) One of a pair of caribou etchings that frame the bar Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/caribou-etching.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/caribou-etching.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/caribou-etching.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/caribou-etching/ caribou-etching 0 0
One of a pair of caribou etchings that frame the bar
56740 (Image: Renée Suen) A bar with a view Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bar-21.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bar-21.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bar-21.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/bar-2-3/ bar-2-3 0 0
A bar with a view
56759 (Image: Renée Suen) 150 beaver-embossed porcelain jars by <strong>Heyday Design</strong> Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/vintage-beaver-sealer-jars.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/vintage-beaver-sealer-jars.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/vintage-beaver-sealer-jars.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/vintage-beaver-sealer-jars/ vintage-beaver-sealer-jars 0 0
150 beaver-embossed porcelain jars by Heyday Design
56758 (Image: Renée Suen) The view from the kitchen bar Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/View-at-the-Kitchen-Bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/View-at-the-Kitchen-Bar.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/View-at-the-Kitchen-Bar.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/view-at-the-kitchen-bar/ view-at-the-kitchen-bar 0 0
The view from the kitchen bar
56744 (Image: Renée Suen) Canoe’s chef’s table Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Chefs-Table.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Chefs-Table.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Chefs-Table.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/chefs-table-2/ chefs-table-2 0 0
Canoe’s chef’s table
56751 (Image: Renée Suen) A bronze and copper map of Canada by <strong>Unit Five</strong> dominates one of the private rooms Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/private-dining-room/ private-dining-room 0 0
A bronze and copper map of Canada by Unit Five dominates one of the private rooms
56750 (Image: Renée Suen) Canoe’s other private dining room Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room-3.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room-3.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Private-Dining-Room-3.jpg 427 640 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/private-dining-room-3/ private-dining-room-3 0 0
Canoe’s other private dining room
56756 (Image: Renée Suen) The dining room has an unobstructed view of the lake and the CN Tower Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Unobstructed-view-of-the-lake-and-CN-tower.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Unobstructed-view-of-the-lake-and-CN-tower.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Unobstructed-view-of-the-lake-and-CN-tower.jpg 427 640 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/unobstructed-view-of-the-lake-and-cn-tower/ unobstructed-view-of-the-lake-and-cn-tower 0 0
The dining room has an unobstructed view of the lake and the CN Tower
56755 (Image: Renée Suen) A trio of beef short ribs is slicked with a tree-syrup glaze, with cauliflower purée and roasted root vegetables ($28) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Tree-syrup-beef-ribs.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Tree-syrup-beef-ribs.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Tree-syrup-beef-ribs.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/tree-syrup-beef-ribs/ tree-syrup-beef-ribs 0 0
A trio of beef short ribs is slicked with a tree-syrup glaze, with cauliflower purée and roasted root vegetables ($28)
56753 (Image: Renée Suen) Seared La Ferme foie gras with Kernal peanuts, Concord grape preserve and toasted brioche ($27) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Seared-Foie-Gras.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Seared-Foie-Gras.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Seared-Foie-Gras.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/seared-foie-gras/ seared-foie-gras 0 0
Seared La Ferme foie gras with Kernal peanuts, Concord grape preserve and toasted brioche ($27)
56748 (Image: Renée Suen) Tea smoked–La Ferme duck breast is paired with toasted wheat berries, seared foie gras, rapini and chanterelles ($44) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Duck-and-foie-gras.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Duck-and-foie-gras.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Duck-and-foie-gras.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/duck-and-foie-gras/ duck-and-foie-gras 0 0
Tea smoked–La Ferme duck breast is paired with toasted wheat berries, seared foie gras, rapini and chanterelles ($44)
56742 (Image: Renée Suen) Hand-chopped Cumbrae Farms beef tenderloin tartare comes with an applewood-smoked bacon chip and Forbes’ Wild Flavours ($24) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare.jpg 640 398 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/beef-tartare/ beef-tartare 0 0
Hand-chopped Cumbrae Farms beef tenderloin tartare comes with an applewood-smoked bacon chip and Forbes’ Wild Flavours ($24)
56741 (Image: Renée Suen) Hand-chopped Cumbrae Farms beef tenderloin tartare comes with an applewood-smoked bacon chip and Forbes’ Wild Flavours ($24) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare-2.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare-2.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/beef-tartare-2.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/beef-tartare-2/ beef-tartare-2 0 0
Hand-chopped Cumbrae Farms beef tenderloin tartare comes with an applewood-smoked bacon chip and Forbes’ Wild Flavours ($24)
56757 (Image: Renée Suen) Medium-rare slices of venison on a bed of steel-cut oats with a bite-sized Navet tart, Soma chocolate walnuts and rhubarb ($47) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/venison-and-Soma-chocolate.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/venison-and-Soma-chocolate.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/venison-and-Soma-chocolate.jpg 640 427 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/venison-and-soma-chocolate/ venison-and-soma-chocolate 0 0
Medium-rare slices of venison on a bed of steel-cut oats with a bite-sized Navet tart, Soma chocolate walnuts and rhubarb ($47)
56745 (Image: Renée Suen) Corn nut and a trio of hazelnut milk chocolate cakes surrounded by crispy phyllo chips, caramelized bananas and a quenelle of coffee ice cream ($12) Introducing: Canoe https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Corn-nut-and-hazelnut-milk-chocolate-cake-.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Corn-nut-and-hazelnut-milk-chocolate-cake-.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Corn-nut-and-hazelnut-milk-chocolate-cake-.jpg 640 396 [] https://torontolife.com/food/introducing-canoe-the-oliver-and-bonacini-flagship-revamped/slide/corn-nut-and-hazelnut-milk-chocolate-cake/ corn-nut-and-hazelnut-milk-chocolate-cake 0 0
Corn nut and a trio of hazelnut milk chocolate cakes surrounded by crispy phyllo chips, caramelized bananas and a quenelle of coffee ice cream ($12)
Canoe , 66 Wellington St. W. (at Bay), 54th Floor, 416-364-0054, oliverbonacini.com/Canoe.aspx
Looks like TL ran out of stories to tell, did you not tell us and show this already ? repeating stories are signs of a magazine going down down downhill.. boring!!
@Pee
It’s probably because no new coffee shops have opened up in a while. That’s usually their go-to story
No, no, this one has pictures of the food, silly. That makes it all new.