B.C. wines are getting better every year, but they’re still hard to come by at the LCBO. Here, five bottles worth a cross-country order
By David Lawrason
Vineyards in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, one the driest, hottest pockets in Canada, continue to grow in quality and reputation. And the demand for B.C. wines here in Ontario has never been greater. Last year, the feds changed legislation to make importing and exporting between provinces easier. However, the Ontario government still charges a hefty import markup on wines from other provinces, which means the LCBO brings in precious few west-coast bottles. Avid fans like me are now ordering directly from the winery or working with private importers to track down the Okanagan’s top varieties. I highly recommend you do the same. These are my favourites.
<p><strong>Syrah | $58 | 90 points</strong></p><br />
Syrah from the southern Okanagan desert of Osoyoos is emerging as the firecracker red of B.C. This is an authentic, nicely focused example from a small premium house specializing in syrah. It balances fresh, lively currant fruit, pepper, nutmeg and sage, and shows fine tension and structure. <em><a href="http://www.bwwines.com/" target="_blank">bwwines.com.</a></em>
<p><strong>Riesling | $35 | 90 points</strong></p><br />
B.C. sommeliers love this dry riesling, which is made from old-vine crops. It has great tension and minerality, and the pear and lemon flavours are particularly punchy in the 2012 vintage, while the acid remains intact. It’s the complete package. <em><a href="http://hobbswines.com/" target="_blank">hobbswines.com.</a> </em>
<p><strong>Reserve Chardonnay | $33 | 91 points</strong></p><br />
This sleek, seductive chardonnay has just the right balance of richness and freshness. Very spicy, toasty oak is nestled amid pear fruit, reminding me of Burgundy’s Meursault. It’s mid-weight, creamy and powerful, with excellent length. <em><a href="http://hobbswines.com/" target="_blank">hobbswines.com.</a> </em>
<p><strong>Pinot Noir | $49 | 92 points</strong></p><br />
Jak Meyer and Janice Stevens are achieving huge critical success with Burgundy varieties like chardonnay and pinot noir. This textural masterpiece is elegant and racy, with classic raspberry and currant fruit, herbs and smoke. It’s a delicious red for now or three years from now. <em> <a href="http://terroirwineandspirits.com/" target="_blank">terroirwineandspirits.com.</a> </em>
<p><strong>Merlot | $40 | 91 points</strong></p><br />
Merlot is B.C.’s most planted red grape and this one is a seminal success for Painted Rock, a leading red producer. Look for a gently floral nose of raspberry, mulberry, tobacco and herbs enhanced by gentle oak. It’s creamy and elegant, with just a touch of greenness on the finish from the cooler 2010 vintage. Best 2015 <br />
to 2020. <em><a href="http://www.paintedrock.ca/" target="_blank">paintedrock.ca.</a> </em>
You should use Meyer’s actual website: http://www.mfvwines.com/ and you can sign up for their wine club at http://wineclub.mfvwines.com/. They have an online store in the wine club.