Introducing: Essen, a new spot on Dundas West for brisket, smoked salmon and matzoh-ball ramen
(Image: Caroline Aksich)
Name: Essen
Contact Info: 1282 Dundas St. W., 416-534-0407, essentoronto.com
Neighbourhood: Little Portugal
Previously: Quinta
Chef/Owner: Leor Zimerman, who closed his Portuguese-French bistro Quinta earlier this year and reopened the restaurant as Essen.
The Food: Essen serves the kind of food you would’ve eaten at home, if you’d been raised in a Jewish household with a French-trained chef for a mom. Ashkenazi and Sephardic dishes are unfussy but prepared with care by Zimerman, who likes to tweak traditional Jewish staples (matzo ball soup gets a ramen makeover, for example). Though à-la-carte options are available, meals are designed to be eaten family style; Zimerman suggests ordering a main (beef brisket, roast Muscovy duck breast), a veg (tsimmis roast carrots, braised cabbage) and a side (duck fat fries, pearl couscous). Essen isn’t strictly kosher, but they don’t serve pork or shellfish, and meat and dairy never mix.
The Drinks: Signature cocktails have quirky names; for instance, the H. Krustofsky (a slivovitz-and-manischewitz number) is named after Krusty the Clown’s father.
The Place: The 17-day reno left much of Quinta intact (same tables, chairs and lights). A fresh coat of paint and a revamped bar are the biggest changes, plus a clutch of adorably awkward bar mitzvah photos hanging on one wall (if you bring your own wall-worthy shot, Zimerman may comp your dinner).
293861 <b>Essen</b> is a rebranding of <b>Quinta,</b> the Portuguese bistro at 1282 Dundas West. (Image: Caroline Aksich) Introducing: Essen https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-01-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-01/ essen-toronto-restaurant-01 0 0
(Image: Caroline Aksich)
293863 The decor hasn't changed much since the restaurant's Quinta days; there's a new coat of paint, a new bar, and a clutch of bar mitzvah photos on one wall. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-03-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-03.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-03.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-03/ essen-toronto-restaurant-03 0 0
293862 If you bring your own wall-worthy bar mitzvah shot, chef and owner <b>Leor Zimerman</b> may comp your dinner. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-02-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-02/ essen-toronto-restaurant-02 0 0
293868 Falafel platter for two: hummus, tahini, pita, pickled turnips and house-smoked olives ($18). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-08-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-08/ essen-toronto-restaurant-08 0 0
293866 Dr Pepper–braised beef brisket with horseradish ($18). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-06-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-06/ essen-toronto-restaurant-06 0 0
293867 Charred eggplant topped with tahini, herbs and chopped red onions ($6). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-07-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-07.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-07.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-07/ essen-toronto-restaurant-07 0 0
293871 Jewish Ramen: egg noodles, matzoh balls, soft egg, deep-fried wonton-wrapped brisket kreplach ($14). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-11-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-11/ essen-toronto-restaurant-11 0 0
293870 Miami short ribs with prune and manischevitz glaze, fresh chilies and scallions ($12). The dish was inspired by Zimerman’s love of Korean short ribs. The name is a nod to elderly Jewish snowbirds who flock down to Florida during the winter (hence the prunes). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-10-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-10/ essen-toronto-restaurant-10 0 0
293869 H. Krustovsky: slivovitz, manischevitz, Luxardo, black pepper and lemon ($12). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-09-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-09/ essen-toronto-restaurant-09 0 0
293872 Transatlantic: rye, Pimm’s, za’atar-stewed peach purée, ginger beer and mint ($12). https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-12-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-12/ essen-toronto-restaurant-12 0 0
293865 Owner and chef Leor Zimerman (right) and his brother Aviv, who helms the front of house. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-05-200x200.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/essen-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg 1000 666 [] https://torontolife.com/food/essen-toronto-restaurants/slide/essen-toronto-restaurant-05/ essen-toronto-restaurant-05 0 0
Looks awesome! Can’t wait to try!
I’ve been and the food is incredible … Highly recommended!!!
Yes foods deserve respect !!?
I absolutely adore anyone who tries to updates all the best of Jewish Food, and think that Soup looks to be heaven in a bowl. Now if someone could work similar magic with Gifilte Fish I would be over the moon!