Earlier this year, Yours Truly shifted to an all-tasting-menu format, eliminating the popular bar snacks that had helped build the restaurant’s good name. Now, owners Matt Cherkas, Dan Hawkins and Aleem Jamal-Kabani are bringing some of those favourites back at A-OK Foods, a new snack and ramen bar open for lunch and dinner on Queen West between Ursa and County General. The changing menu, led by head chef Chris Jang, features Chinese, Korean and Mexican flavours, but the big draw will no doubt be the chewy house-made ramen noodles, a rarity in Toronto, made on a special machine imported from Korea and then aged for up to three days.
The barebones 35-seat space, designed by Jessica Nakanishi and Emil Teleki of MSDS Studio, evokes the relaxed, outdoorsy feel of a hawker alley, with turquoise picnic tables and counters made from stacked cinder blocks topped with sheet metal (the floor tiles will soon be done over in grey). Both Jang and sous chef Geraldo Quintero are alumni of Yours Truly, and while they trained in fine dining, they share a love of slinging casual plates to a buzzing room. Unlike most Toronto ramen shops, A-OK uses a chicken-based shoyu broth for its soup ($10.50), which is served with sous vide pork belly, soft-boiled egg and a crisp fried seaweed chip topped with nutty sesame seeds. The snack plates include KFC (Korean fried chicken) wings ($8.50), served with spiced wedge fries with sour cream and a Mexican fuego hot sauce, and yakitori-inspired skewers ($5, $8.50 for two) glazed in a mole-like chili-chocolate sauce and dressed with sour cream and cotija cheese. There’s also cold somen noodles topped with a spicy pickled snail salad ($9), tofu ceviche ($8) and Sichuan tsukemen ($10.50), a noodle dish served with Sichuan peppercorn- and chili-laced black bean sauce. A-OK’s drink menu is simple, featuring a pilsner on tap ($6), wine ($7) and horchata ($3.50), with hard-to-find cans of Kikusui sake ($13) on their way in December. Oh, and fans of Yours Truly’s salt cod inari will be happy to hear that A-OK will be selling the finger-friendly stuffed tofu pouches too ($7).
A-OK will be carrying the hard-to-source Funaguchi Kikusui Ichiban Shibori, a honjozo (draft type) fresh sake that’s neither pasteurized nor blended. Expect this to join the drink list in late December.
Tofu ceviche ($8): ex-vegetarian Geraldo Quintero’s Mexican-flavoured dish is composed of firm tofu cubes, coriander, diced celery and peanuts tossed in a chili vinaigrette. The hearty dish is served with fried tortilla chips (which we’re told will eventually be replaced by pappadums)
Snail salad ($9): a spicy cold somen noodle dish topped with pickled sea snails, cucumber, onion and carrots. The spicy, slightly acidic snack was one Jang grew up with in Korea
Sichuan Tsukemen ($10.50): cooked ramen noodles paired with a dipping sauce made with jajangmyun (Korean black bean paste), Sichuan peppercorns and dried chilies
Pork skewers ($8.50 for two): a Mexican version of yakitori brushed with a mole-influenced chili-chocolate glaze and finished with sour cream and cotija cheese
Shoyu ramen ($10.50): the milky soup base, made from chicken bones and feet that have been simmered overnight, is seasoned with soya sauce and a hint of yuzu before being ladled over house-made noodles, sous vide pork belly, soft boiled egg, green onion, goji berries and a crisp fried seaweed chip with nutty sesame seeds
Jang took courses at ramen schools and participated in apprenticeships in Korea and Japan before developing his own recipe that incorporates kansui (alkaline water), semolina flour and a two-to-three-day aging step (to develop gluten). The resulting noodles are chewier and have a dull tinge compared to the unaged, brighter yellow and less springy ramen typically found in the city. The fresh noodles are stored in a custom wooden storage box and kept covered to prevent dehydration
After: Jessica Nakanishi and Emil Teleki from MSDS designed the casual 1,300-square-foot room. The aluminum pendant lamps are first editions by designer John Sabine. The tiles on the floor will soon be painted grey
Sous chef Geraldo Quintero and head chef Chris Jang, who explains the blend of flavours on A-OK’s menu by pointing to their cultural backgrounds: “I wanted to have Mexican influence from the beginning. Korean and Mexican flavours are very similar in their balance of spiciness and freshness.”
The street signage for A-OK jutting out above Queen West also includes the katakana script for Queen West (クィーン・ウェスト). The name is derived from the familiar hand gesture
Fuck yeah!
LET THE LINEUPS BEGIN!!
If Noodle Bar and Grand Electric had a baby…
Gonna OD on that salt cod inari
um , i dont think so , another noodle bar.
whatever
sous chef’s name is Gerardo Quintero ***** (author spelled it wrong)
hi shakir ;-)
If only Toronto Life were as honest as my hips. They never lie.
What kinda ramen purveyor doesn’t offer miso ramen??