Constantine

The chef Craig Harding’s Campagnolo and La Palma are the laid-back, tanned distant cousins of Toronto’s Italian restaurant family: lighter, more seasonally minded, more Californian. At his new restaurant, occupying most of the ground floor of the Anndore House, a new boutique hotel, he’s taking a culinary side trip to Lebanon, Greece and Spain. He’s still making his signature bubbling and blackened cacio e pepe pizzas and handmade pastas, but the real treats come from the wood-fired grill: whole sea bream, skin charred and drizzled with Greek olive oil; kebabs of sumac-dusted lamb belly smeared with labneh; and especially plates of charred red cabbage (with pickled apple and chunks of walnut) or tabbouleh (with pomegranate seeds and grilled radicchio). There’s a small side café with takeout pastries, which you’ll wish was closer to your office, and a romantically low-lit bar that’s become, in the months since it opened, one of the nicest places downtown for an after-work curative.

Constantine, 15 Charles St. E., 647-475-4436, constantineto.com